Blackhorse Lane Ateliers
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Jeans NW1 and chambray shirt E16
Made in England
Jeans are known by everyone on the planet, we all have at least one in our wardrobe. It is not surprising that more than 2 billion jeans are sold in the world each year, that is 73 per second.
This brings a major constraint. In addition to the fact that jeans require a lot of water during the production process, and that many chemicals are used for cultivating cotton, selecting a pair can be tricky. It's simple, the overwhelming majority of brands offer it. From the entry-level to the luxury brands, may they be by Japanese or American specialists of the true Nîmes fabric, the choice is plethoric.
As within the team, we prefer to highlight brands specialized in their field, we were intrigued by a brand from a country better known for its Savile Row tailors, fine leather shoes, its waterproof hunting jackets, or even the corgis of the late Queen Elizabeth II.
Let's go to the North-East of London to understand the universe of the Blackhorse Lane Ateliers brand.
The Blackhorse Lane DNA
Located in the Walthamstow district within a factory dating back to the 1920s, the brand created in 2016 by Bilgehan Han Ates offers ready-to-wear jeans in raw denim and organic cotton for men and women. With over 30 years of experience in the garment industry, Han wanted to create classic jeans but with some special touches.
With a focus on quality, community, and sustainability, the brand believes its denim design is unmatched in the world. Quite an ambitious project. In order to embark on the adventure and meet these precise specifications, it was necessary to analyze, compare and test what others were doing, primarily Japanese.
One of the objectives of the brand is to put forward know-how with specific manufacturing methods while participating in the reindustrialization of Western countries. Of course, in respect of the people who work for the brand and a choice of raw materials of the best possible quality (this is the only thing that is not made on site). Even if this argument can be perceived as a marketing campaign slogan, it is clear that for Blackhorse Lane Atelier, this is not the case both in terms of manufacturing quality and the final result of its products.
The NW1 ecru pair of jeans
You know our love for white jeans, a true essential. Indeed, it can be paired with any other colors of a man’s wardrobe. Of course, like all colors, it has many shades. And what better than the opinion of the dyers of previous centuries? They could not guarantee the whiteness of the garment as they used several products, that's why underwear was usually ecru. An ecru garment is a fabric that was not prepared, neither bleached nor dyed. Unlike indigo, there is no risk of ending up with blue stains on your hands or shoes after wearing your new jeans.
The models are named after the postal codes of the city of London such as E5, E8, NW1, SE1, etc...Being a fan of the straight cut with a high waist (probably because of my love for the famous Levi's 501 from the 60's/80's), I quickly chose the NW1 model. We'll come back to this, but BLA doesn't just reproduce old jeans, but rather improves on what has already been done.
The advantage of the high crotch, that is to say from the crotch to the last button of the fly, is that I don't feel any apprehension when I bend down or have to make movements. The fly is finished with a flat stitch on the inside so that the overlock stitches are not visible. These types of details are direct inspirations from tailoring rather than workwear. This is Han’s great approach on these jeans.
The fabric is 13oz and comes from the workshops of Candiani in Italy. Here again, BLA is careful about sourcing, with fabrics coming mainly from Italy, Turkey, or Japan. You will find all the information (style, size, origin of the fabric...) on the inside pockets. Transparency above all.
Concerning the length, in addition to the fact that you can choose a "classic" leg length, 34 or 36, you also have the possibility to have it retouched at your convenience by them. Something I should have done as the 34 is far too long for me.
As for the pockets, they are solid and the finishes are neat. You won't have the recurrent problem of the old Levi's which have inside pockets, on the front, which tend to tear over time. In this case, the lining is very thick (10oz cotton twill from Turkey) and in the right pocket bottom, you even have a double compartment. The whole thing is of course supported by rivets and copper-nickel buttons made by YKK. The “coin pocket” on the other hand has no selvedge thread, which may be a nice detail for purists.
Another essential point, the brand offers free repairs to extend your garments’ lives. You'll have to go in for hems and repairs on traditional machines like the Union Special 43200 G allowing the famous chain stitch.
To take advantage of all these features, you'll have to pay the price. Indeed, the NW1 costs more than 350€, which is a lot of money for a pair of jeans. On the other hand, the general quality of the jeans is quite incredible and will accompany you for a good number of years. On of best jeans in England, without a doubt.
Available here.
The E16 chambray 6oZ workshirt by Black Horse Lane, a revisited classic with style
The E16 chambray workshirt is a living example of a successful reinterpretation of an iconic piece. The shirt has been revisited by Black Horse Lane, drawing inspiration from vintage designs while ensuring a contemporary fit.
It is made of a 6oZ chambray manufactured in Japan by Collect Mills, the fabric will soften with successive washes and wears while developing a wonderful patina. The triple stitching ensures a durable fit. The shirt is entirely made in London in Black Horse Lane’s workshop.
The shirt has a regular fit, I opted for a size XXS – simply because I am not a big fan of shirts being too long. Knowing that, it will only shrink in length – and not in width – after a few washes by about 1-1.5 cm maximum.
While I particularly like the overall piece, I regret a few missing features. I would have preferred to see two buttons on the chest patch pockets. But that's a stylistic choice rather than a functional one. I prefer buttons to really confer a more workwear vibe. Despite this, the clean look gives the piece a more streamlined feel making it perhaps easier to integrate into a less workwear outfit.
Another point, the collar. I find it too short. At 6.5 cm, I'm not used to such a short point although historically they are usually this size. And it should be noted that this kind of shirt is not to be worn with a tie, so it is almost not intended to be full buttoned. The collar has a very good hold due to the fabric which is still a bit sturdy because I haven't washed it yet. I'm especially looking forward to it getting softer.
Also, I regret the 7 buttons on the placket. For me it would have been better to have 6 to give the shirt an even bigger Americana vibe. Despite this, nice initiative to have placed the last button higher, which facilitates movements. Style-wise, I love this. After all, this type of shirt is made – initially – to work in.
All in all, for ready-to-wear, the shirt has some quite impressive details. Such as mother of pearl buttons, a fantastic Japanese fabric, two-side gusset and especially triple stitching.
The shirt is available here on Black Horse Lane’s website.
