J.M. Weston Factory, finest French craftsmanship

J.M. Weston

French savoir-faire

Note: This article is the humble point of view of three shoe and menswear enthusiasts, with a strong sense of pride. France still producing some of the finest shoes in the world. All the more so as Weston also has its own tannery for leather soles. We have no reason to be jealous of the shoe industry in Northampton, England.

March 22nd 2023. Paris Austerlitz 6h30. Heading to Limoges. 

After a 3 hour train journey, we arrived in Limoges. A cab is waiting to take us to one of France's last shoe factories, a favorite of Westonians everywhere.

The station is well worth a visit. An Art Deco masterpiece listed as a historic monument since 1975.

But let's move on to La Manufacture on the outskirts of Limoges.

Foreword

Our first contact with a shoe is its aesthetics, its shape. It's the point of entry, directly accessible to us, and undoubtedly one of the most important criteria of desirability. From the outside, many new shoes are beautiful. But very few of us have the chance to see the inside, the heart of the beast. That's the hard part.

Making beautiful shoes, inside and out, that's the hard part.

Visiting the factory, we were able to see every stage in the making of a pair of J.M. Weston shoes. Far from taking the easy way out by refusing to choose economical materials for the invisible parts, J.M. Weston remains true to its quest for excellence. The hidden elements, just as important as the visible ones, are designed and chosen with the same concern for quality.

All stages of production are carried out at the factory, including some of its sneakers over the last few years. So it's not surprising that the factory covers some 10,000 m² and employs up to 200 people.

The leather

The selection of leathers is draconian. On a classic box calf skin - a very smooth, chrome-tanned calf leather measuring around two square meters - between four and five pairs can be made per skin.

Since color can vary slightly from one skin to another, each pair is necessarily made from the same skin. This is the "pair in skin" rule. J.M. Weston uses over 90% French leather - the remaining 10% are mainly exotic skins. For example, they continue to work with Tanneries du Puy, owned by the company until 2015.

This meticulous, respectful approach to leather helps forge the unique identity of J.M. Weston shoes, where the upper* becomes much more than just a "body" - it embodies the commitment to authenticity and durability, even in the often overlooked details.

We'll be talking about the leather soles in a later article, as these are made by a tannery owned by J.M. Weston, the extra-slow vegetable-tanned Bastin tannery.

*The upper is the leather covering the upper part of the shoe.

The cut

Once the leather for the upper has been selected, it comes to the cutting stage. Each of the parts that make up the upper are cut out so that they can be assembled later.

We refer to the Claque (front part of the upper), the Garants (the two parts of the upper that carry the laces), the Bout (front end of the upper) or the Quartiers (pieces of leather attached to the back of the upper). Or even the Languette, with which you're already familiar.

At J.M. Weston, this step can be carried out using three different processes. From the most manual to the most automated, because the brand never refuses technical progress when it brings real benefit.

Exotic leather is always cut by hand using a trencher. Other leathers are cut by an automated laser-cutting machine. They can also be cut more manually using metal cutter, a kind of cutting mold similar to that used in pastry-making.

Stem assembly

As in the case of a garment, once the various leather parts have been cut, they are transferred to another part of the factory, where all the stitching operations are carried out.

As the 180 moccasin is the brand's bestseller, its upper benefits from its own production line, with a team of seamstresses - known as mechanics - specially dedicated to the creation of its upper.

See some examples below.

In the case of the legendary Chelsea Cambre, less stitching is required. Yes, the Cambre upper is cut from a single piece of leather. Unusually, there are no side seams. There's just one at the back and one at the elastics.

To do this, the upper is shaped on a wooden template. Moistened, the skin elongates under tensile stress and tends to retain this elongation more or less permanently. This is also known as "leather lending".

This unique technique not only gives the shoe a very pure line, but also minimizes the risk of walking creases.

“Mood setting" in the "marriage hall”

It's not just the camber stems that are "tempered", i.e. moistened to increase their malleability. By becoming more supple, they are better able to withstand the various rough treatments to which they will subsequently be subjected.

The other stems are also "tempered" in the "marriage room" for at least 24 hours. In other words, the stems are stored in this room prior to assembly, where the soles are married to the stems.

You can't see it in the photos below, but this room is very humid indeed, with steam escaping as you enter.

The lasts hall

Another impressive room in the factory is the “last park”.

This is where all the lasts used by the brand are stored. It is on these lasts that the uppers are curved before being mounted on the soles.

One last per half-size and per width. Multiplied by two for each side, right and left, we arrive at a total of over 40,000 lasts! Quite considerable. So you're (almost) sure to find the right shoe for you.

Assembly: stem and sole assembly

The first assembly parts are made at the factory. The sole that serves as the first assembly is supplied by the Bastin tannery. Next comes the making of the wall that will bind together the stem, the welt and the mounting first. We've seen several types of mounting blocks: engraved wall with ordinary interfacing or boot interfacing, and glued wall.

In this case, the mounting bases below are wall-attached - i.e. a wall is added, glued and reinforced with interfacing - in white.

When the stem and first assembly are ready, they can be assembled.

J.M. Weston uses several types of assembly. Goodyear, of course, a technique invented in the United States and brought back by Eugène Blanchard, son of the brand's founder. But also the famous Blake stitching, for example for the lightweight 180.

Below you can see that the first assembly is placed under the last. The stem is also on the last, and is attached to the first assembly by manually nailed staples. It may not look like much, but this operation is quite physical: the rod has to be bent and stretched correctly on the form.

To this is added the characteristic GoodYear welt. At this stage, pairs with fragile skins are "shell-covered", i.e. covered with a plastic film to prevent damage to the upper during the following stages.

Below, the stitching of the welt on the mounting wall of the first pair.

As a prelude to the union with the outsole*, a real cork lining is added between the insole and the outsole in contact with the ground. And let's not forget the beech-wood arch support, a vital element that acts as a kind of shock absorber.

*in other words, the outsole that treads on the ground

Once the outsole is in place, a groove is cut into the sole around its perimeter. This is also known as engraving. It is in this groove that the stitching is made to join the outsole to the welt and thus to the whole shoe.

This seam is protected by closing the engraving, a step that will be carried out definitively with hot wax during the bichonage process.

A small-stitch marking is then applied, to help press the seam into the welt.

Then comes the fitting of the heel (usually in wood) and the finishing touches in the "pampering" workshop.

Among other things, the shoes are polished and fitted with their insole. They are now ready to be sold in boutiques.

The “Derby Chasse” by J.M. Weston: Refined Bottier Art

How can you visit the Manufacture J.M. Weston without mentioning the Derby Chasse ? Created in the 1930s, it is still one of the most emblematic models in men's footwear today.

The Derby Chasse boasts a series of sophisticated technical details, such as the Norwegian stitching, hand-stitched with fish-tanned linen threads, the engraved wall assembly and the jointed nose, all of which bear witness to J.M. Weston's expertise in craftsmanship.

Originally designed for mountain hiking, the Derby Chasse offers reliable waterproofing and appreciable solidity. On foot, they stand out for their firmness and endurance, with lifespans frequently exceeding thirty years.

Hand-stitched Norwegian assembly takes one day per pair. Not to mention that the yarns are made in-house: 17 strands of linen are assembled and coated with wax and resin (known as "poissés") to make them rot-proof and waterproof. In other words, it takes time! Up to several months in total, if you add up all the different stages.

The “Bell repair” and club

A brand that is ready to see its shoes come back is obviously a very good sign. You need to have confidence in your fittings, your leather and your ability to get them back into shape quickly. Not to mention the fact that this allows for continuous improvement, so that any defects can be quickly rectified.

Here's an example of before and after.

Very few brands offer this service, with the possible exception of John Lobb.

Some 10,000 pairs go through this service every year. Whether it's for resealing, dyeing, repairing... In fact, when resealed pairs return from the factory, their soles bear the initial "W" inscribed inside what looks like a bell - in fact, it's the outline of the triumphal arch of the J.M. Weston logo. Owners of such pairs become part of the famous bell club or “club des cloches” in French.

We leave you with a dozen large-format images of the factory, which we hope you'll enjoy.

Thomas, Mathieu and Marcos.

The Anthology Tweed Herringbone Jacket - A Tweed jacket with a "softer aesthetic"

Reader's note: The Tweed jacket featured in this article was purchased directly from the brand's website by mutual agreement with The Anthology.

At the 95th Academy Awards, British actor Bill Nighy - nominated in the Best Actor category - dazzled the red carpet with his well-cut tuxedo. The media asked him the traditional question "who are you wearing? - meaning "which designer dresses you?" - Bill replied: "some cool guys from Hong Kong, The Anthology". The (small) world of cinema discovered The Anthology. We had talked about the Hong Kong label two years ago, with their flagship product, the Lazyman jacket, a hybrid half-blazer half-cardigan. A brand that is somewhat unknown in France, but well worth a closer look. While Lazyman is an integral part of my wardrobe, their Tweed jacket recently made its debut.

Let’s take a closer look.

From a meeting comes the love of a style

A few years after our article on the Lazyman jacket, I had the pleasure of meeting Buzz Tang, co-founder of The Anthology, in Paris over coffee and viennoiseries.

He was wearing a beautiful light beige waxed cotton jacket - of his own brand, of course - and I immediately understood that Buzz was dressing for real pleasure. A polo shirt, jeans and Crockett & Jones loafers, from his collaboration with The Anthology, completed his outfit.

In this interview, Buzz told me about the beginnings of the brand, and the trials and tribulations he faced. Thanks to these, he and his tailoring partner Andy Chong have built a solid reputation in the world of bespoke and made-to- measure suits.

So naturally, I wanted to try on a jacket from the brand's wardrobe.

An essential Tweed jacket for winter

Tweed is the queen of winter fabrics. We've written about Tweed at length in our columns, but it's worth remembering that this dense, strong-handed wool originated in Scotland, a region we're particularly fond of. Tweed is therefore a perfect ally for the autumn/winter seasons, as its tight weave keeps the body warm while providing armor against wind and cold. Tweed is even hydrophobic, keeping you - within reason - fairly dry in the event of a light shower.

The pattern of this jacket, a black chevron on a dominant gray background, is a classic of the men's wardrobe.

ZOOM ON THE HERRINGBONE PATTERN ON THE ANTHOLOGY JACKET. IMAGE FROM THE AHTOLOGY WEBSITE

Classic doesn't mean boring. For a long time, I looked for reasons not to wear Tweed. Too warm, too rough, too British, too country...the superlatives were endless.

And then I got interested in the history of Tweed, its weaving, its origin and its usefulness.

The Tweed used for our jacket is moderately heavy in weight. We don't have the exact weight available, but feel free to write to us in the comments of this article or on Instagram, we'll ask the brand.

Tweed has all the qualities needed to face the cold of autumn and winter.

A "softer aesthetic" jacket with English and Ivy influences

What is soft tailoring? The concept was born several years ago when Vicenzo Attolini, a cutter at Rubinacci, decided to remove the padding from the shoulder of a jacket to create a "spalla camicia" sleeve - meaning "a jacket shoulder like that of a shirt", judged more natural and unstructured.

The term "soft tailoring" doesn't mean much these days. Tailors often offer both: two customers dressing in the same house may come out with two diametrically opposed suits. That's why Buzz Tang speaks of a "softer aesthetic" - a rounder, softer line, without going overboard.

Starting with the lapels. The notch is low, unlike the Italian, which is higher, flattering the build. During a chat over coffee, Buzz told me that it took him a long time to develop the perfect notch. At least, the one he felt was the most balanced. I can confirm that this low cuff is very popular and lends a certain retro feel. It's rare to find cuffs like this in a made-to-order offer.

Then there are the shoulders. They structure the silhouette, enveloping it without making it square. There's no padding in the construction, but the special feature of The Anthology shoulder is its extension. In fact, it's slightly longer than what you'd expect from other brands we've reviewed. I find the shoulder line elegant and a real nod to English craftsmanship.

The jacket is fully lined - which makes sense for a fall/winter piece - and features a fun detail: patch pockets with flaps. When I asked Buzz why he made this hybrid choice, he replied that he wanted to pay subtle homage to Ivy style. This detail makes the piece less dressy and may not appeal to some, but it has the merit of offering something new not seen elsewhere.

The jacket comes with the buttonholes unfinished, so you can choose your ideal length with your trusted alteration specialist.

This review of my The Anthology Tweed jacket is also a reminder that the "made in China" label is not always synonymous with poor quality. On the contrary, there are high-quality workshops offering well-made garments. Buzz and Andy are in constant contact with their Hong Kong workshop.

How to size The Anthology Tweed jacket?

Normally! Opt for your usual size, below the size chart. Feel free to ask the great customer service on the website or via Instagram.

IMAGE FROM THE ANTHOLOGY SIZE CHART. SOURCE: THE ANTHOLOGY WEBSITE

A Tweed jacket that's inevitably informal

As mentioned earlier, Tweed is a wool that lends a rather casual look. For this reason, here's how I wear this jacket.

I’m wearing a John Smedley turtleneck in navy merino wool, Uniqlo U selvedge jeans and Alden penny loafers.

Of course, there's nothing to stop you wearing a jacket in this material with a tie.

Ready for the autumn/winter season?

The answer is yes. A real suit of armor will protect you from the cold with taste and peace of mind.

Available here.

The Everdon from Crown Northampton: a top-of-the-range sneaker

Crown Northampton

The Handstitch collection: The Everdon

On January 21, 1956, rockabilly singer Carl Perkins made history in 2 minutes and 14 seconds. He had just released the worldwide hit "Blue Suede Shoes", which became a Rock'n'Roll anthem. Elvis, The Beatles and Johnny Cash successively offered their own versions. Blue velvet shoes are not common. That's why Crown Northampton, Northampton's most Rock’n’Roll shoe manufacturer, offers them.

Let’s take a closer look.

The Hand-Stitch collection from Crown Northampton

The everdon in action

This high-end collection is inspired by bespoke, hand-crafted shoes. The challenge is to offer a high level of finishing in a dress sneaker.

Indeed, it may seem contradictory. However, it's enough to take note of the details of this special pair. Starting with the presence of cork, hand-filled. It's the first time we've seen a pair of sneakers made in this way. Yes, the last time we saw cork-filled shoes was at J.M. Weston during a visit last May. Cork forms a solid filling along the entire spine of the sneaker and provides comfort, stability, as well as good moisture-wicking throughout the sneaker. Also worth noting is the use of leather for the counter (rather than plastic or other bonded materials). In addition to that, there's vegetable tanning, hand-sewn stitches - especially those at the back of the counter - and a rubber sole made from hevea milk or lactae heveae, which develops a patina over time with wear. One characteristic of this rubber sole is its flexibility; it's quite spongey and durable at the same time. We haven't tried it before, so we don't know how it will hold up over time, but Crown Northampton assures us of its robustness.

Furthermore, the British brand offers a plethora of leathers and soles for this unique model. You can choose a Horween cordovan color #8, like a very famous American brand...

The model I'm wearing is in deer leather, an extremely supple and unusual leather for sneakers.

A (very) high-end sneaker

The best brand for sneakers in the world ?

 Above, we'll let you discover the video by Rose Anvil where he disassembles another pair of shoes from the Northampton brand.

On our part, this further confirmed our opinion on this pair. While it's easy to see that the pair is both glued and stitched without taking it apart, you can also observe the entirety of the work done. For instance, the presence of cork between the rubber sole and the leather. A multitude of details that largely account for the substantial price of this pair.

How does this model size?

Like the Artizan model, this model fits true to size. I'm wearing 6.5 UK here.

How does one wear the Everdon?

A dress sneaker is a stylistic peril. While the sneaker-suit combo should be avoided at all costs, Gianni Agnelli - as is often the case - proposed several outfits with this type of sneaker and sartorial trousers, he was always on point.

Nevertheless, I opted for a pair of white five-pocket pants, a grey t-shirt and a black Bleu de Chine jacket.

 I can finally say I've got my Blue Suede Shoes.

Assisi Bespoke Tailors: the rising star of Korean tailoring

"Tutte le strade portano a Roma" - all roads lead to Rome, Caput Mundi. No fewer than eight consular roads linked the Roman capital to the provinces: via Aurelia, Cassia, Flaminia, Salaria, Tiburtina, Casilina, Appia and Ostiense. These arteries still exist today, some modernized and others symbolizing the remains of one of the greatest empires of all time. The influence of this empire's culture, language and customs is latent in modern Italy. Latin has given way to Italian, cobblestones to freeways and senators' togas to suits. Italy's best ambassador is surely its craftsmanship, which many envy and draw inspiration from. And so, in 2020, a brilliant newcomer to the sartorial world showcased his know-how inherited from Italy. Kim Min Soo, a Korean master tailor for over 15 years, founded Assisi Bespoke Tailors in Seoul and set out to conquer Europe. 

Let’s have a closer look at this Korean tailoring rising-star, making us want to wear patterned jackets. 

The story of a Parisian encounter 

In September 2022, we met members of The Decorum Bangkok at the opening of the new Jacques Solovière boutique at 108 boulevard du Cherche-Midi in the VIème district. Ball Warong, visionary co-founder of the Thai store featuring cutting-edge brands, agreed to take part in our Readers' Attire feature. On the day of the shoot, Ball was wearing a jacket by Florentine house Liverano, but when we met, he told me about a Korean tailor with a promising career: Assisi. Regular trunkshows at The Decorum have helped Assisi gain a well-deserved attention and reputation. 

One year later, in June 2023, Ball and his very stylish business associate Guy (@master_keynes) came to Paris to support the young Korean tailor in his first trunkshow. It was only natural that we - Thomas, Mathieu and I - should revisit Ball and meet Kim Dabin (@kimdabin), the young tailor representing Assisi. What a meeting! I was immediately fascinated by the suits, a cross between Milanese and Florentine influences. 

We had to feature Assisi on our website. I decided to commission a jacket.

A few months later, on October 6 and 7, Assisi returned to Paris for another trunkshow. Kim welcomed us in a Parisian apartment rented for the occasion in the Marais district, and we were able to chat and take the photos you'll discover in this article. 

A word about Kim: he's always dressed soberly and tastefully. On this day, he wore a very elegant tennis-striped suit in dark tones. 

Assisi: Italian influence with Korean flair 

Master tailor Kim Min Soo is self-taught, but learned the art of tailoring in Milan from Paulo Rentini. The Korean team comprises six tailors, all trained by master tailor Kim Min Soo, and a manager. Assisi's offer is twofold: bespoke and the less expensive made-to-measure. While grande-mesure had already been covered by an English blog, demi-mesure had not. So Kim and I agreed to make a made-to-measure jacket in the fabric of my choice. 

I wanted an informal jacket and a fabric with a certain allure. I naturally turned to a gunclub pattern, a fabric featuring a succession of small squares punctuated by polychrome lines. It's a deadstock fabric from Drapers Italy. This means these precise colors are hard to find, which makes it a unique jacket. The photos in this article are worth more than a thousand words. 

Assisi bears an Italian name - in homage to the eponymous Umbria town and the sartorial Italian savoir-faire - but injects signature details into the construction of its jackets. One of these, for example, is the slightly turned shoulder that facilitates mobility, as well as a slightly pronounced cigarette. The more extended shoulders are a signature mark, and help to shape the build, thanks also to the high armhole. Surely, Assisi didn't invent this, but incorporates it with precision when taking measurements, this is highly appreciated.

A Korean jacket on Parisian shoulders 

I'm particularly fond of the innovative approach from Asian sartorial houses which we have covered on Les Indispensables. This is undoubtedly because they are not bound by a specific style or convention, and so decide to take various elements from this or that country and turn them into something else. The low lapel notch or the slightly wider shoulders are all elements that Assisi has adopted and perpetuated for their "house cut". Once again, I'd like to emphasize that they have not invented anything, but have made their own all these elements shaping the sartorial universe. It's not a question of deconstructing the jacket to know exactly how it's made from every angle, but more of appreciating the final result. And we truly love the final result.

A personal attraction in the jacket's rendering is the rather drooping shoulders. Having naturally this morphology, I find that this detail makes the sartorial composition more natural and less "costumy-like", in the sense that it becomes one with the wearer. You only have to pass through Kim's hands when taking measurements to understand the care taken to achieve this final fit. The cut is close to the body, emphasizing the silhouette. The jacket marks the waist without constricting it. 

Coincidentally, British brand Drake's was also in the capital for a pop-up at the same time as the Assisi trunkshow - you can read our article in French here – and I was delighted to receive compliments on my jacket from all the Drake's salespeople! It made a definite impact, proving that this piece doesn't leave anyone indifferent. 

A jacket for every day 

Definitely the jacket I get the most compliments on, it's become a wardrobe essential. The gunclub pattern is perfect for casual wear, but can also be paired with a shirt, tie and loafers. 

Assisi's tour de force is to create a simple, elegant garment with a certain panache. An indispensable. 

Bonus: when receiving my piece Mathieu took the opportunity to try out some of their jackets samples, the result in images below.

Artizan Belgian Slipper - Crown Northampton

Crown Northampton

Artizan Belgian Slipper

One of the leading shoe manufacturers in Northampton has been making a comeback for several seasons now. Crown Northampton continues to impress us with their innovative stylistic proposition and centuries-old craftsmanship. We've already spoken twice about this English brand, and we're revisiting it today with models we are particularly fond of.

Let's discover the Artizan Belgian slipper from the Jazz collection.

A slipper unlike any other

Perhaps you're familiar with the Belgian loafer, a shoe that's halfway between an indoor slipper and a deconstructed moccasin. The ambivalence of this piece lies in the fact that it can be worn both indoors and outdoors. Indeed, the usually leather sole wears out as it hits the pavement, but this OVNI calcéophile doesn't leave passers-by or its wearer indifferent.

Having already owned this model, specially ordered from Crown two years ago, and paying tribute to the traditional Belgian loafer with a smooth leather ribbon on the vamp, I wanted to try something more streamlined.

The English house's "Artizan" model addresses the issue of the sometimes fragile sole by offering a Vibram rubber outsole. This ensures greater durability and longevity. Not to mention the comfort it brings to the feet! A leather sole can sometimes prove cumbersome due to its rigidity - even after many wears - unlike a rubber sole, which more readily relieves the arch of the foot. At least, that's the observation I've made.

But then, why wear this type of hybrid shoe? It's very enjoyable to wear Belgian loafers outdoors, especially when they're made of leather. Crown Northampton offers this model in black calf, in brown Janus calf from the English tannery C F Stead in Leeds, one of the best for this leather, as well as in suede grey and white.

The leather - instead of the usual canvas for example - gives the shoe a more outdoor wearable aspect due to the natural resistance of leather.

Nevertheless, I have two reservations about this model.

The first is that the leather - though beautiful - is quite matte for my taste. I would have liked it to be naturally slightly glossy, but this is a request I can meet myself by polishing them.

The second is the lack of a heel on the rubber sole. Indeed, the Artizan is primarily an indoor model and does not require a particular heel to tread about one's dwelling, no matter its size. However, a heel would have given the piece a more formal, desirable aspect. Be that as it may, it's likely easier this way to pair it with a more casual outfit and will convince you to do the same.

Finally, let's add the option to choose from three different sole colors. Also remember that all Crown Northampton models are offered as MTO, or made-to-order. The British brand therefore does not keep stock. Each order thus paves the way for rationalized and thoughtful production. This could explain the fluctuating wait time of 9 to 12 weeks. But with Crown Northampton, the praise of slowness prevails.

How does this model fit?

This is always a tricky question to answer precisely. Both Crown Northampton and I would answer the same way: this model fits true to size. In other words, go for your usual size. Note that, like any leather shoe model, the Artizan will stretch over time.

How to wear the Artizan Belgian slipper?

This model is easily adaptable. Here, I'm wearing Herringbone twill fatigue pants, a Bugatti blue work jacket, and a black Uniqlo U t-shirt. The divisive style of these shoes calls for caution and simplicity in an outfit.

Let's underline that this model is perfectly wearable in winter, simply favor wearing socks.

So here's the perfect alternative to traditional boat shoes and other espadrilles. There's no doubt that once you try them on, you'll be convinced by this essential footwear.

The Colhay's luxurious cashmere & silk blend polo: a piece every man needs this summer

When Colhay's founder Ronnie Chiu invited us to try out his cashmere and silk polo shirts for summer, we were delighted to accept. After wearing the brand's legendary heavy-weight cardigan this Winter, we felt the urge to wrap ourselves in more summery materials, always with taste as with Colhay’s.

A luxurious polo shirt and a splash of Riviera allure

Let's face it, the price tag on this magical blend may deter some. Listed at €400 - £345 on the brand's website - this tennis polo is a real investment piece.

But when we look at the details, we understand and appreciate even more this iconic piece of a man's Summer wardrobe. This polo draws it’s inspiration from pre-1950s tennis tops and boasts longer short sleeves and a wider collar. What great details! We're always concerned when these two points are too short, and we continually fall into the pitfall of them being ill-proportioned.

This cashmere silk yarn "is the finest and most luxurious in the world", as Colhay's puts it. It's woven by the experts in the field, Italy's Cariaggi Lanificio. The result is an extremely soft, silky and lightweight hand. Cashmere in the middle of summer? The blend of silk and cashmere makes the polo much lighter than if it had been 100% cashmere. The silk gives the piece a light, airy feel, ideal for warm weather.

Densely knitted and entirely shaped and bound by hand - unlike most polo shirts, which are cut and sewn - this is another appreciable detail that makes this polo luxurious.

The collar is in Milano stitch, which gives it a certain robustness in relation to the rest of the body, so that a jacket, for example, can be worn without the collar flattening out - as we tried. The collar is not rigid, however, making it a rather casual piece all the same.

On the collar fastening side, the polo has three brown horn buttons - Ronnie's personal wish, because for him, this makes the piece more streamlined and discreet than if he'd opted for white mother-of-pearl. A choice we particularly appreciate, as Colhay's philosophy is in perfect symbiosis with the choice of materials for each garment they skilfully produce.

Another detail we like: the short sleeves are longer than normal, reaching 5-7 cm above the elbow and covering most of the arm. This renders the wearer more confident in not showing his arms, something we sometimes struggle with !

How do we wear the Colhay's tennis polo?

We opted for an outfit that straddles the line between formal and informal. Gray fresco trousers, a seersucker Teba jacket by Justo Gimeno, Belgian Loafers by Crown Northampton and white socks for a Fifties feel.

We like to wear the polo tucked in for a more streamlined look, but the tightened ribbing at the bottom allows the piece to be worn untucked as well, keeping it’s shape.

A must-have this summer, whether you're in Paris or Positano.

Available here.

We tweet in the style of Die Workwear thanks to AI. #layeringorbaking

How to tweet in the style of Die Workwear?

This question has been made possible for a few months now with the development of Artificial Intelligence. We wanted to conduct a test and to do so we started from an interview with Toby Bateman for the Korean magazine B Magazine. He articulates an interesting viewpoint on some of the buzzwords in the #menswear universe.

So we copied and gave this text to Chat GPT, asking it to use this as a basis to formulate a Tweet in the style of Die Workwear.

B. Magazine : Are there certain words that Mr Porter expressly avoids using?

Toby Bateman : There are two or three. I'm sure it slips through occasionally, but one thing that is banned is "must-have." Because there's nothing one must have. You need to wear clothes, but there's never a must-have sweater. If you love Disney and you're six years old and you want to look like Snow White, then you might have that, but for grown-up men, no.
Another word, which I think has crept in once or twice but is banned, is "layering." Fashion people love saying layering.
But think if you have to say, "Well, I'm just going to go do some layering this afternoon." Who says that? No one says that. The other thing - and we do use this sometimes - is "texture." And texture's lovely. People say, "Oh, it adds texture to your outfit," and it does, I get it, but again, I don't think any of us think, "I'm just going to go and buy some texture tomorrow." If we don't say it to each other or to our friends, then we shouldn't be saying it to our customers. It's hard, because there are only so many words for fashion, but if we can, we try to avoid those words.

And here is the result from Chat GPT :

Today's thought: 'Layering' in fashion. Unless we're talking about cakes or onions, it's a term that feels out of place. Who says, "I'm off to do some layering?" Next time, I'll ask if they're bringing the cream cheese frosting. #LayeringOrBaking

Rather convincing, isn't it?

Last step, we used Adobe to generate images from this text.

Rowing Blazers x Harry's Bar New York

"Please take me to Sank Roo Doe Noo" allows any American passing through Paris to find the address of the legendary Harry's New York Bar. Founded on November 26, 1911 - Thanksgiving Day - in Paris and nestled in the 2nd arrondissement at 5 Rue Daunou, its walls have seen the likes of Hemingway, Humphrey Bogart and Coco Chanel, and the creation of several cocktails still served and known the world over, such as the "Bloody Mary" (dating from 1921), the "Side Car" (from 1931) and "Le Pétrifiant" (1964), which is said to have caused the drinker to collapse after one glass, such is the strength of its blend of different alcohols!

We were able to sample Hemingway's favorite cocktail, the "Bloody Mary", and warmly recommend this pleasant Franco-American landmark: in the evening, head to the basement for a piano performance - atmosphere guaranteed! 

So much has been said and written about Harry's Bar - whether in Florence or Venice (try their "Bellini", it was invented there!) - we wanted to talk about clothes. Harry's Bar New York has teamed up with New York brand Rowing Blazers to offer a range of merchandise, available here.

Rowing Blazers was founded by Jack Carlson, author of the eponymous book and former rowing champion. An archaeologist by trade, he founded Rowing Blazers with the aim of promoting beauty, and makes a point of collaborating with mythical and offbeat brands and institutions.

As a member of "The International Bar Flies (I.B.F.)" founded by the pioneers of Harry's Bar New York - Harry MacElhone & O.O.McIntyre - it was only logical for him to collaborate with the legendary bar and propose a line of clothing. This secret club even has rules! Here they are:

1. The I.B.F. is a secret and sacred fraternal organization devoted to the up life and downfall of serious drinkers.

2. Members must buy if not at the moment, sometime. What is a decade among friends?

3. Any members of the I.B.F. caught cutting out paper dolls after a bad night must hand in their resignations.

4. Those that come to the Trap at 5 A.M. and are able to play a ukulele without rehearsal are eligible for life membership.

5. Members bumping their chin on the bar rail in the act of falling are suspended for ten days.

6. Members who have the idea they can wallop Dempsey are notified that there is a plastic surgeon on duty night and day close to the traps.

7. It is respectfully suggested to Bar Flies that they do their weeping in the toilet, and also bring their own mops.

8. Those seeing cerise cats with purple ears should keep it to themselves. Traps are not zoological gardens.

9. Those sniffling about “the best little women in the world” and starving for another round must pay for it.

10. Remember, nothing is on the house but the roof.

11. Those who decide drinking is a menace are welcome at all times but should just keep quiet.

12. And remember that there are a lot of boys in the rear who might want something.

13. Backslappin after six drinks be tempered with mercy remember, I.B.F.’s have false teeth.

14. Any members breaking any of the above rule will be penalized drinks to all I.B.F.’s present.

We've fallen for the t-shirt with its print of two clashing flies, the symbol of Harry's Bar. The t-shirt is made of thick cotton with a pleasant hand feel, and manufactured in Portugal. Available here.

The Guayabera from Burgos Madrid, a Summer staple

In October 2022, during a trip to Madrid, we visited Burgos, the blouse of the King of Spain. On this occasion, we ordered a Teba - find our article here - and a Guayabera. With the weather and the heat approaching, it was time to show you the final result.

Burgos, a Madrid institution

"This is the model of Guayabera that Hemingway wore, he loved this shirt" says Carmen, the niece of the owner of Burgos. This particular shirt takes its name from the four pockets: two on the chest and two on the waist.

The burgos guayabera

Worn especially in Latin America and seen as an anti-colonial symbol par excellence, it was created by the quenettier farmers - guaya in Spanish - who had sewn several pockets on their shirts in order to maximize the harvest and be able to carry more fruit.

ERNEST HEMINGWAY WEARING HIS GUAYABERA from burgos IN 1957

(COLORIZED PHOTO, TAKEN BY THE great PHOTOGRAPHER YOUSUF KARSH, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED)

Guayaberas aficionados are countless, from Fidel Castro to Roger Moore or even Prince Harry, this shirt breathes Summer and carefree. It is mostly cut in a white linen/cotton blend and can be either long or short sleeved.

Recently, the king on vacation wore a Guayabera shirt from the house. "He is our ambassador, in a way, of the exceptional Spanish know-how," says Carmen.

King Felipe wearing his guayabera from burgos on vacation

Ordering a Guayabera from Burgos Madrid

It is possible to buy a Guayabera in ready-to-wear on the website as it is possible to make one to your measurements. 

While visiting the charming store, it was a good idea to have my measurements taken by the tailor in person. 

chest measurements being taken

arm measurement

neck measurement

yoke measurement

Not all the photos of the measuring process are shown here. The measurements were taken by the tailor and include: neck, chest, waist, back, total length of the shirt, shoulders and sleeve length (Note: you can also order your Guayabera by filling in your measurements directly on the brand's website).

Once the measurements are recorded - by hand! - the order is validated. 1 month later - delays may vary - I received my Guayabera.

I chose a classic white cotton/linen fabric with long sleeves. It is an eminently summery shirt and is worn as such. 

I'm wearing it here with green linen pants and white Sebago leather docksides. The Guayabera is a perfect shirt for the city or the beach, but also for a wedding! It's not uncommon in Latin America for guests to wear one, so why not do the same elsewhere? If the weather permits, go for it.

The ultimate Summer shirt

If you want to stand out from the crowd, the Guayabera is a great option. It is comfortable, elegant and will not go unnoticed.

Count 150 € for a Guayabera in ready-to-wear and 190 € for one in made-to-measure. The Guayabera de Burgos is a must-have for the summer.

Smock Jacket from Yarmouth Oilskin

Note: At our request, Yarmouth Oilskins agreed to send us the 2 pieces that you will discover in this article.

In a precedent article, Marcos told the heritage of Yarmouth Oilskin and the local manufacturing of the British brand. Of course, at Les Indispensables, this is our stuff…

For this article, I chose to review the Explorer smock, in a fern green colorway, that is such a drastic change from the many olive green parkas and Barbour jackets already in my wardrobe… If you prefer, the smock is also available in cobalt blue. 

This smock jacket is a winter version of the one currently on sale on the Yarmouth Oilskin e-shop, it will be available for the Fall Winter 23-24 season.

The smock is made of a water repellent « dry wax » cotton. The fabric feels very soft and natural, and allowed me to come home dry despite the parisien bruin. It is wool wadded and cotton lined, which makes the jacket warm and comfortable, even without a mid layer, and , not to mention, highly breathable. 

Unfortunately, unlike Marcos, I do not have a motorcycle, so my only accessory was a hat, which was a good thing given the rain. 

I am a fan of the cut and details of this smock which remind of mid-century outdoors apparel (before the term ‘gorpcore » was invented), like the leather pieces to pull the drawstrings, or the cat’s eyes buttons. The front pockets are wide enough to store a map of the area you plan to explore, or a large smart phone. Two discret lateral pockets are lined with cotton fleece, to keep your hands warm, in case you forgot your gloves. 

The construction isn’t fancy, but is well designed and feels very robust. This smock is an excellent alternative to the original vintage ones that may be too rare (or precious) for a daily use.  

The seance item of this review are the deck trousers. I wanted first to try the stone colorway (that would have been a nice addition to my pile of chinos…) but it was not in stock at the time. So I went with the black one, that ended up much easier to wear than i originally thought. These trousers were in the brand’s catalog back in 1969 (nice).

The fit is relaxed at the hip and thigh and tapers slightly below the knee (because nobody wants their trousers caught in a rope). The elasticated waistband can be tightened with a drawstring, which makes the trousers extremely comfortable and easy to wear in any situation. To be frank, I have worn mine almost daily as I changed from my suit, coming home from the e-mail factory.  

Obviously, the sturdy cotton and solid construction makes them an excellent pair of trousers for more adventurous settings than a Netflix evening.

As a conclusion, this review confirms our first impression. Yarmouth Oilskin offers quality and comfortable garments, perfect for treading in the mud, fighting against the elements, or just enjoying a nice moment without worrying about a possible change in the weather. 

Which clothes are really made in the U.S.A.?

Which clothes are really Made in the USA? Because yes, only 2% of clothing purchased in the United States is made in the United States.

To find out, we asked Alex Goulet and Willy DeConto to send us a copy of "Crafted With Pride 2023", the definitive book on American-made clothing*.

It lists more than 750 companies that make clothing, accessories and shoes in the USA.

You may already know Alex Goulet (@tagsandthreads) as he is also the author of several books, one of which we particularly recommend for all champion fans: "Guide To Vintage Champion". You can read our article on the Reverse Weave of Champion.

Alex has also worked with established companies such as Hanes, New Balance, Nike, Jordan Brand, Adidas and Reebok.

When you're a content creator, you're always looking for something new. We spend a lot of our time discovering (or rediscovering) new brands to share with you. Well, only the ones we think are interesting.

That's the whole point of a book like Crafted With Pride 2023. From cowboy boots from the American Southwest, to outdoor clothing from the North Pacific, to handmade suits from New York, the list of brands is long. They initially started with 150 brands and ended up with 750 in the end. 70% of the brands were discovered through their own research and 30% were discovered through word of mouth.

Most of the brands listed are much more than that: they own their production tools, which makes them really interesting to us.

It is worth noting that many of these companies are relatively young. From the year 2000 and beyond. We are not surprised because the initiatives to consume more local and more sustainable are multiplying all over the world.

But we must admit that we are the first to be the most "suspicious" towards these new brands. They have not always proven themselves. We must believe that the history invocation that is often used by brands to provoke an image of respectability and prestige on the consumer also works on us.

Crafted With Pride 2023 also allowed us to rediscover brands we already know: Crescent Down Works, Martin Greenfield, Columbia Knit, Rancourt, Alden or even Victoria whose sneakers we learned were resolable several times.

We also had the joy of discovering new brands: we think of St Croix, Individualized Shirts or Alpine Ludite a manufacturer of custom-made hiking bags.

The magazine is available here.

*Marcos also bought it on his side, he paid 11€ of customs fees on this occasion.

McGeorge of Scotland – A Parisian lookbook

"Timeless Anarchic Luxury" can be read on some of the labels of the Scottish knitwear from McGeorge of Scotland. Since 1881, the brand has been offering pieces in wool, cashmere and cotton. Icons of style have worn McGeorge knits, from Steve McQueen to Grace Kelly, all have had their Aran cable sweater or shawl collar cardigan.

In its 1990 edition, the Japanese magazine Men's Club classified McGeorge as a "Status Brand" on a par with Rolex and Louis Vuitton. This is far from being a coincidence.

THE RED sweater MCGEORGE is stuck between J.M. Weston and gucci

We love knitwear and wear a piece almost every day. It was only logical for us to collaborate with a brand of the caliber of McGeorge.

We are pleased to offer you our lookbook of knitwear from the Scottish house. The 2 following pieces are both knitted in a very comfortable Super Geelong wool for everyday wear.

Please note that Mathieu wears a size M on all pieces.

McGeorge of Scotland - True Icons Never Die

You've probably already seen these two famous photos of Aran sweaters. On the first one, Steve Mcqueen during the shooting of the movie The Thomas Crown Affair. On the second one, Grace Kelly in 1950, in the bay of Monaco.

Voir cette publication sur Instagram

Une publication partagée par McGeorge of Scotland (@mcgeorgeofscotland)

Voir cette publication sur Instagram

Une publication partagée par McGeorge of Scotland (@mcgeorgeofscotland)

What brand are they wearing ? McGeorge of Scotland! Over the past 100 years, McGeorge has made a name for itself on the world market, including some of the most famous actors and actresses in history. One example is Jean-Luc Goddard's 1960s film, Blowout, where Jean Seberg wears an oversized McGeorge sweater.

History

In 1881, James McGeorge took over Robert Scott and Sons, a small family knitting shop in Dumfries, to create his own brand. The Future Museum South-West of Scotland website states that from 1885, "McGeorge specialised in the production of gloves on knitting machines designed and developed in their own factories. Further expansion took place from 1888 when the large factories on St. Michael Street became vacant and the McGeorge company moved its operations there. By 1902, the company also had a portion of the Nithsdale factories, where 700 to 800 workers, mostly young women, were employed. McGeorge also operated a glove factory in Sanquhar and other smaller units in the countryside around Dumfries." Over the years McGeorge became the largest hosiery company in Dumfries. It produced mainly cashmere, Shetland wool and cotton sweaters. It also specializes in intersia knitwear. McGeorge works both under white label - for luxury brands such as Lanvin, Burberrys, Sulka - and under its own brand.

a cashmere sulka sweater made by McGeorge
Image tumblr.com

a lanvin sweater made by McGeorge
Image tumblr.com

Hand intarsia for sulka hand-framed
Image tumblr.com

a Burberrys sweater made by McGeorge
Image tumblr.com

McGeorge was later acquired by the Dawson International Group, which also owned other historic Scottish brands such as Braemar, Pringle of Scotland, Todd & Duncan and Barrie Knitwear.McGeorge closed its doors in the 1990s. It was only very recently, in 2017, that Lorenzo Borre and Simone Castronvo relaunched J&D McGeorge in Hawick with the support of the Scottish Borders Council and Scottish Development International. 20 skilled jobs have been created.

PRODUCTION

Not surprisingly, McGeorge of Scotland uses mainly Cotton Machines to knit its sweaters. Straight Bar Frame machines have been retained in a number of high-end workshops because of their smooth knitting and good productivity.

hand knitting Image McGeorge of Scotland

The Bentley-Cotton
Image McGeorge of Scotland

COLLECTIONS & DISTRIBUTION

McGeorge's collections are currently not easy to find. The Rake offered a selection last winter of cashmere sweaters - from Loro Piana - and Shetland wool. Another possibility via Oconnells Clothing. Or on Yoox. Good news, the McGeorge website was launched a few months ago and is slowly being operational offering MTO.

100% Shetland wool
Image oconnellsclothing.com

Argyle - 100% Shetland wool
Image oconnellsclothing.com

100% Shetland wool
Image oconnellsclothing.com

100% Shetland wool
Image oconnellsclothing.com

William Crabtree & Sons

William Crabtree & Sons is a recognized name in British textile history. Founded in Yorkshire in 1835, this weaver originally specialized in the manufacture of woolen blankets and fabrics for sport jackets.

They notably supplied the Hudson's Bay blanket company.

The company had disappeared in the 70s but its name was finally bought recently by James Priestley who decided to create his own brand. His shop is located in the Marylebone district of London. An e-commerce site is also set up.

James has worked for a long time in the men's textile universe, for brands such as William Lockie, Johnstons of Elgin and Drake's. Solid references. You can learn more about his journey by listening to the Menswear by a Woman podcast.

A benchmark for classic pieces

It was on Instagram that I first discovered William Crabtree. I remember it very well, I was then looking for a cable knit sweater.

William Crabtree favor British wardrobe classics and in particular authentic British-made fabrics.

They have both a Made-To-Measure service and a Ready-To-Wear line. I was particularly curious to try one of their knitwear, at an attractive price. And it was a very good surprise upon receipt of the 2 chosen clothes.

We are therefore very happy to write about this English store.

Cable knit sweater

Cable knit sweater was one of the ideal solutions to help sailors protect themselves from the cold at the beginning of the 20th century.

It really became popular in the West from 1950, when it was exported to the United States and appeared for the first time in Vogue magazine - thanks in particular to Elizabeth Zimmermann. It is also the beginning of mass consumption, sweaters are massively produced by machines.

While cable sweaters were once knitted by hand from rustic, undyed wool, brands like Ralph Lauren have managed to modernize it. First with color and then with the material. It now becomes possible to buy a purple cashmere cable sweater for instance.

That of William Crabtree is in shetland wool. Its knit is very flexible, airy and super comfortable to wear.

In recent years, merino wool has had the wind in its sails. It must be said that it has many assets. But Shetland wool, the star of Shaggy Dog sweaters, seduces us just as much with its more rustic appearance. A striking aesthetic.

We love the fairly high collar and the right length for a size medium. There is no need here to turn the excess material inside at the waist. Here Jean is wearing a size 40. To be more comfortable, size 42 would probably have been better.

A sweater that is both very chic, it will be very easy to wear in a very dressy outfit to go to a dinner in town. But also very rustic, it goes very well with country outfits.

Finally, we can only recommend their cable knit shetland. Other colors are available. The classic gray but also more lively colors, a green and a purple. Note that they are not brushed but still very beautiful.

Two days ago we published an article on the best sweater brands. William Crabtree is certainly one of them.

Winter pants

If at first glance it was their knits that we liked the most, we were finally very pleasantly surprised by their chinos.

It doesn't show very well in the picture but it is very thick and has a soft, peachy side. Probably a cotton from Brisbane Moss. A British classic that is not so easy to find contrary to what one might think.

The interior is really very clean, we are on a high-end brand without a doubt. We particularly appreciate the silicone bands to prevent the pants from slipping. The side tabs also do their job very well.

It comes with an unfinished bottom for a perfect fit.

In terms of color, this tan color is neither too beige nor too dark. It will go easily with a navy, grey, brown or green sweater. Even red. But dark colors if you have any doubt.

In summary, these trousers are really a must for winter.

Shaggy Dog Turtleneck from Bosie

A Shaggy Dog Turtleneck

When you have an interest in how you dress, you can easily restrain yourself with rules that have been so endlessly repeated. This is how i always thought that brushed shetland sweaters could only feature a crew neck and nothing else. Another constant principle is that you should not, under any circumstance, wear light colors if your own complexion is also on the lighter side of the spectrum.

This is why, when Bosie offered that we tried a turtleck sweater, it felt transgressive when I asked for an EXTRA SHAGGY and WHITE one.

I have to say, the forbidden fruit does taste sweet. The white if warm and natural, but not ecru. If you recently repainted your apartment, it is between eggshell and Avoriaz (if you haven’t, then let’s say ivory).

The quadruple shaggy brush gives the fuzzy look we all love and matches perfectly with the indecent comfort of this sweater. With that color and texture, it feels like slipping in a cloud. This is not an exaggeration.

For a roll-neck sweater to look and feel good, the knit must be dense enough to warmly wrap around you and so that the roll-neck does not disgracefully loosen. Although beware of strangulation by a neck too tight!

This sweater offers a nice balance because I didn’t suffer from hypothermia despite a near 0°C morning under the arch of la Défense (you can see based on how red my ears are that it was quite chilly). Thanks to the wool’s density and the quadruple brushing, the neck stays in place, without risking (or enjoying…) self-asphyxiation.

Of course comfort and warmth come with a price, and you will not be able to wear this sweater under a sport coat, like you would with a fine merino. But this is not really the mood here. In the spirit of science, I did try to wear it under a roomier tweed jacket and it worked fine for a particularly cold day in an under-heated office building.

I guess there is no need to sing the praises of Bosie and the quality of their products, which have already been presented in our pages. But it goes withiout saying that I am always happy to wear clothing that was made the right way and not too far from my home!

Fresh Torino - The Casentino wool overshirt made in Italy

Fresh Torino

The Casentino wool overshirt made in Italy

In 1998, the American entrepreneur Senh Duong founded the Rotten Tomatoes website, which aims to establish a ranking of films validated by critics and viewers. The best films are awarded a "certified fresh" label, those less good "rotten". This is how The Wizard of Oz (1939) and Citizen Kane (1941) regularly compete for the top spot of the best movie of all time. The idea of having a "tomato meter" comes from the vaudeville plays of the early 20th century, in which the audience used to throw tomatoes at the actors to show their displeasure with the quality of their performance. The word "fresh" captures quality and novelty. It was therefore logical that the Turin-based store Fresh Torino would adopt this label. This Piedmontese store was founded in 2007 by two enthusiasts, Giulio Carbone and Alessio Massa, who could not find quality clothing from niche brands. At Fresh Torino, you will find Japanese brands such as Beams Plus or Orslow but also exclusive collaborations such as the one realized in partnership with the American brand Crescent Down Works. In a world dominated by multinationals and mass market transaction, the rationalization operated by Fresh Torino is welcome. The physical store is doubled with a digital presence and recently Alessio and Giulio launched Fresh, a brand that reflects their image.

We are pleased to introduce the Fresh blue Casentino wool overshirt.

Let's have a closer look.

The age-old history of Panno Casentino

The wool tradition of Panno Casentino has its origins in the Middle Ages in the town of Stia. The climatic and orographic conditions of the territory have forever linked this area to textile production since the 13th century. Sheep farming, already present in Etruscan and Roman times, became a predominant activity during the 15th century due to high demand. At the same time, the craft of the “orbace”, a woolen fabric used in Sardinia in particular, took off but remained confined to a limited market due to the constraints imposed by the Republic of Florence.

The birth of the first Panno Casentino is attested in 1537: the success of this new product was staggering. The characteristics of roughness and compactness immediately appealed to the working classes who, especially in the case of shepherds, merchants and carters, needed weatherproof coats for prolonged use. Despite the significant roughness of the finished products, this fabric eventually intimidated some far-sighted Florentine officials, who understood its commercial potential thanks to its competitive prices. In 1616, a law by Cosimo II limited the sale of Casentino to the production areas only, effectively preventing its export outside the valley.

Despite the corporative uprising in the face of the Florentine sovereigns' adversity, during the 16th and 17th centuries the wool craftsmen continued to spread in Stia as well as in the entire valley. Over time, the growing demand was met by the transformation of the textile factories into industrial centers. In the middle of the 19th century, the first woolen mills began to operate. In fact, first Stia in 1830 and Soci in 1848, then Rassina and Pratovecchio, all became important factories, employing hundreds of inhabitants. During this phase of development, the fabric was refined and became warmer and lighter.

Thanks to the innovative practice of "rattinatura" - the process of scraping the wool giving it its typical brushed look - Casentino acquired a very characteristic and unique appeal.  

From the mid-19th century onwards, new colors appeared, such as green, orange and red, these very vivid tones are absolutely characteristic of this wool.

The Fresh overshirt in navy blue wool casentino

Casentino wool has always fascinated me. Colorful, wearable and warm, I had never tried a garment on. So when I discovered the casentino wool overshirt from Fresh, I was very happy to give it a test run. 

The Turin-based brand's Casentino comes from the leading Stia-based manufacturer TACS, founded in 1976. If you want to know more about how this Tuscan wool is made, check out this very detailed video from the manufacturer.

The overshirt has two chest pockets with flaps, 7 real mother of pearl front buttons, shirt cuffs and two hidden side pockets. The deep blue catches the light beautifully. The piece is fully unlined.

The Fresh overshirt runs large. I'm wearing an XS here but had to take up the sleeve length so I wouldn't have to turn them inside out again. Before purchasing, ask for the measurement guide. For your information, here are the measurements for size S: total length 75 cm, sleeves 68 cm and shoulders 49 cm. So, the size S is actually a size M and the XS is a S. The fit is therefore regular.

The panno Casentino is known for its robustness. I can confirm this! Not only is the fabric thick but it is also particularly warm.

How do you wear a piece in Casentino?

As simply as possible!

I'm wearing white denim jeans, a Shaggy Bear Howlin' sweater in Kelly green and Paraboot Chambord in cordovan.

The blue overshirt is available here, and the green one here. You’ll need 249€ to spend the winter in warmth and style.

Camiseria Burgos – The shirt maker of Spanish kings, the king of Spanish shirt makers

Text: Marcos E.

The Burgos shop in the early 20th century. (Photo from the Burgos website)

The Burgos shop as it stands today (Photo from our October 2022 visit)

At number 2 of calle de Cedaceros in Madrid is the oldest shirt maker in Spain. The emblematic Camiseria Burgos was founded in 1906 by Julian P. Burgos. Now run by the Olave family, this extraordinary place has had legendary customers such as Hemingway, Orson Welles, Cary Grant and Pablo Picasso. All of them have enjoyed the elegance of this house. 

During a weekend in Madrid, I was able to visit this historical temple of Spanish craftsmanship where everything is made on site or in Spain in incredible fabrics.

Let's open the doors of Burgos. 

A store with an authentic flair

I am greeted by Carmen Alvarez, third generation and great-grandniece of the owner Santiago Olave. The store is bathed in a bright light in a late Art Nouveau style setting. The ceiling is high, allowing the numerous wall-mounted display cases to fit in and display exceptional pieces.

The interior of the Burgos store with the chair where Cary Grant used to sit

My wife, who accompanied me, sits in the walnut chair in the foreground of the photo above. "Cary Grant used to sit there and spend hours chatting with my great-grandmother, he loved our store”. The tone is set, we are in an exceptional place, as there are few. 

Like works of art, the company's know-how is masterfully displayed behind glass

"This is the model of Guayabera Hemingway wore, he loved this shirt" says Carmen. This particular shirt takes its name from the four pockets - two on the chest and two on the waist.

Ernest Hemingway's Guayabera model

Worn especially in Latin America and seen as an anti-colonial symbol par excellence, it was created by guaya farmers – a tropical fruit resembling a small lime – who had sewn several pockets on their shirts in order to maximize the harvest and be able to carry more fruit.

Ernest Hemingway wearing his Guayabera Burgos in 1957 
(Colorized photo, taken by the legendary photographer Yousuf Karsh, all rights reserved)

The wearers of Guayaberas are countless, from Fidel Castro to Roger Moore or even Prince Harry, this shirt breathes summer and dolce vita. It is mostly cut in a white linen/cotton blend and can be long or short-sleeved.

A custom-made Guayabera in white linen and cotton has been ordered from Burgos but we will dedicate an entire article to this atypical piece when the heat returns. 

An exceptional Spanish know-how

Burgos is the official shirt maker of the King of Spain. "We are the shirt maker of Felipe VI long before he ascended the throne, we are very proud of it!" says Carmen. There's a lot to be proud of. With references to prestigious fabrics such as Thomas Mason – offering poplin, twill, oxford or linen – the choices are countless and of quality.

Autographed photo of King Felipe VI, at the time still Prince.

"Affectionate greetings to the Camiseria Burgos for this first centenary. Congratulations to all and my best wishes for your future” reads the card.

Recently, the king on vacation wore a Guayabera shirt from the Spanish house. "He is our ambassador, in a way, of the exceptional Spanish know-how" says Carmen.

The King Felipe VI wearing his Burgos Guayabera

one of Thomas Mason's many fabric books

the different inscriptions possible on the shirts, from crowns to simple initials.

"Each of our shirts are cut in our workshop, in the basement of our store. Follow me”. Carmen leads me to a spiral staircase that leads to a room with a high ceiling and a peaceful atmosphere. What strikes me immediately is the meticulousness with which the craftsmen devote themselves to their cutting work. I inextricably thought of the tailors on Savile Row who carefully stack up customers' patterns, referencing them by name. 

Craftsmen cutting kraft paper patterns, as is customary on Savile Row.

Cut shirts, ready to be sewn.

This is what the floor looks like after a day of cutting – just a small overview !

Carmen continues: "20% of our customers are foreigners, but the other 80% are Spanish and have expectations about the quality of our products. One customer complained that he was damaging his shirts while ironing them...We sometimes receive housekeepers of some of our customers to show them exactly how to iron our shirts! We also offer an ironing and dry-cleaning service, this is the Burgos service”.

Burgos makes bespoke shirts – by hand – or MTM – by machine – prices vary from 90 to 400 € depending on the choice of service and fabric. The good news is that Burgos offers remote MTM, making it possible to send your measurements by email to order a shirt. A second piece of good news awaits you at the end of this article!

The "Domecq", the Burgos Teba  

The Teba is a long love story of mine. In my opinion, it’s the easiest garment to integrate into an outfit as it is a real chameleon piece. It can be worn with or without a tie. This jacket is truly the Swiss Army knife - or Leatherman - of a man's wardrobe. The Teba is rather a more casual than dressy piece, but therein lies its beauty.

When Carmen asked me to try the “Domecq” – a Burgos exclusive – I was very intrigued. The particularity is that it borrows some characteristics from the traditional blazer while keeping its "Tiradora" soul – the other name for the Teba jacket, initially a hunting jacket. 

Like a classic Teba, the Domecq is completely unstructured – always extremely pleasant in my opinion – but with rounded fronts and two vents in the back. The "Domecq" still has the shirt-cuff sleeves, a characteristic Teba-collar and three patch pockets, one of which on the chest. 

I chose a luxurious fabric, a thick jersey blue cashmere with an extremely nice and soft hand and gold buttons for a totally Brooks Brothers look. I think hybrid clothing doesn't always last over time, especially from a style standpoint. But here, something just works. I must confess that the rounded fronts bothered me initially, because for me, the Teba is straight and without vents in the back. But during my Madrilenian stay, I saw some gentlemen wearing the Domecq with elegance. 

The Domecq is entirely made in Spain, in Zaragoza by Justo Gimeno. It is exclusive to Burgos.

How do you wear the Domecq?

The Domecq Teba is more formal than a classic Teba. I really like the Brooks Brothers American feel with the gold buttons. For this reason, I totally chose to integrate it in an Ivy outfit.

I’m wearing a regimental tie from Gabucci, Alden cordovan penny loafers, beige socks from Mes Chaussettes Rouges, a light green OCBD shirt from Kamakura and khaki trousers from Uniqlo U.

In short: Spanish excellence

As stated previously, the special features of the Domecq are the gold buttons and the curved fronts of the jacket making it more formal, like a classic blazer.

The Domecq is cut here in a luxurious fabric, a blue cashmere with a soft hand that does not wrinkle. Other fabrics and colors can be ordered, with or without gold buttons. You can make your own Domecq.

Good news, Burgos has an online eshop – for the moment only in Spanish, but a Google translation will suffice – and offers ready-to-wear garments. You’ll need 150 € for a Guayabera and 450 € for a Teba.

Some pictures during our visit to the Burgos store and workshop in Madrid.

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers

Jeans NW1 and chambray shirt E16

Made in England

Jeans are known by everyone on the planet, we all have at least one in our wardrobe. It is not surprising that more than 2 billion jeans are sold in the world each year, that is 73 per second. 

This brings a major constraint. In addition to the fact that jeans require a lot of water during the production process, and that many chemicals are used for cultivating cotton, selecting a pair can be tricky. It's simple, the overwhelming majority of brands offer it. From the entry-level to the luxury brands, may they be by Japanese or American specialists of the true Nîmes fabric, the choice is plethoric. 

As within the team, we prefer to highlight brands specialized in their field, we were intrigued by a brand from a country better known for its Savile Row tailors, fine leather shoes, its waterproof hunting jackets, or even the corgis of the late Queen Elizabeth II. 

Let's go to the North-East of London to understand the universe of the Blackhorse Lane Ateliers brand. 

The Blackhorse Lane DNA 

Located in the Walthamstow district within a factory dating back to the 1920s, the brand created in 2016 by Bilgehan Han Ates offers ready-to-wear jeans in raw denim and organic cotton for men and women. With over 30 years of experience in the garment industry, Han wanted to create classic jeans but with some special touches. 

With a focus on quality, community, and sustainability, the brand believes its denim design is unmatched in the world. Quite an ambitious project. In order to embark on the adventure and meet these precise specifications, it was necessary to analyze, compare and test what others were doing, primarily Japanese. 

One of the objectives of the brand is to put forward know-how with specific manufacturing methods while participating in the reindustrialization of Western countries. Of course, in respect of the people who work for the brand and a choice of raw materials of the best possible quality (this is the only thing that is not made on site). Even if this argument can be perceived as a marketing campaign slogan, it is clear that for Blackhorse Lane Atelier, this is not the case both in terms of manufacturing quality and the final result of its products.

The NW1 ecru pair of jeans

You know our love for white jeans, a true essential. Indeed, it can be paired with any other colors of a man’s wardrobe. Of course, like all colors, it has many shades. And what better than the opinion of the dyers of previous centuries? They could not guarantee the whiteness of the garment as they used several products, that's why underwear was usually ecru. An ecru garment is a fabric that was not prepared, neither bleached nor dyed. Unlike indigo, there is no risk of ending up with blue stains on your hands or shoes after wearing your new jeans.  

The models are named after the postal codes of the city of London such as E5, E8, NW1, SE1, etc...Being a fan of the straight cut with a high waist (probably because of my love for the famous Levi's 501 from the 60's/80's), I quickly chose the NW1 model. We'll come back to this, but BLA doesn't just reproduce old jeans, but rather improves on what has already been done. 

The advantage of the high crotch, that is to say from the crotch to the last button of the fly, is that I don't feel any apprehension when I bend down or have to make movements. The fly is finished with a flat stitch on the inside so that the overlock stitches are not visible. These types of details are direct inspirations from tailoring rather than workwear. This is Han’s great approach on these jeans.

The fabric is 13oz and comes from the workshops of Candiani in Italy. Here again, BLA is careful about sourcing, with fabrics coming mainly from Italy, Turkey, or Japan. You will find all the information (style, size, origin of the fabric...) on the inside pockets. Transparency above all. 

Concerning the length, in addition to the fact that you can choose a "classic" leg length, 34 or 36, you also have the possibility to have it retouched at your convenience by them. Something I should have done as the 34 is far too long for me. 

As for the pockets, they are solid and the finishes are neat. You won't have the recurrent problem of the old Levi's which have inside pockets, on the front, which tend to tear over time. In this case, the lining is very thick (10oz cotton twill from Turkey) and in the right pocket bottom, you even have a double compartment. The whole thing is of course supported by rivets and copper-nickel buttons made by YKK. The “coin pocket” on the other hand has no selvedge thread, which may be a nice detail for purists. 

Another essential point, the brand offers free repairs to extend your garments’ lives. You'll have to go in for hems and repairs on traditional machines like the Union Special 43200 G allowing the famous chain stitch. 

To take advantage of all these features, you'll have to pay the price. Indeed, the NW1 costs more than 350€, which is a lot of money for a pair of jeans. On the other hand, the general quality of the jeans is quite incredible and will accompany you for a good number of years. On of best jeans in England, without a doubt. 

Available here.

The E16 chambray 6oZ workshirt  by Black Horse Lane, a revisited classic with style

The E16 chambray workshirt is a living example of a successful reinterpretation of an iconic piece. The shirt has been revisited by Black Horse Lane, drawing inspiration from vintage designs while ensuring a contemporary fit. 

It is made of a 6oZ chambray manufactured in Japan by Collect Mills, the fabric will soften with successive washes and wears while developing a wonderful patina. The triple stitching ensures a durable fit. The shirt is entirely made in London in Black Horse Lane’s workshop.

The shirt has a regular fit, I opted for a size XXS – simply because I am not a big fan of shirts being too long. Knowing that, it will only shrink in length – and not in width – after a few washes by about 1-1.5 cm maximum.

While I particularly like the overall piece, I regret a few missing features. I would have preferred to see two buttons on the chest patch pockets. But that's a stylistic choice rather than a functional one. I prefer buttons to really confer a more workwear vibe. Despite this, the clean look gives the piece a more streamlined feel making it perhaps easier to integrate into a less workwear outfit.

Another point, the collar. I find it too short. At 6.5 cm, I'm not used to such a short point although historically they are usually this size. And it should be noted that this kind of shirt is not to be worn with a tie, so it is almost not intended to be full buttoned. The collar has a very good hold due to the fabric which is still a bit sturdy because I haven't washed it yet. I'm especially looking forward to it getting softer.

Also, I regret the 7 buttons on the placket. For me it would have been better to have 6 to give the shirt an even bigger Americana vibe. Despite this, nice initiative to have placed the last button higher, which facilitates movements. Style-wise, I love this. After all, this type of shirt is made – initially – to work in.

All in all, for ready-to-wear, the shirt has some quite impressive details. Such as mother of pearl buttons, a fantastic Japanese fabric, two-side gusset and especially triple stitching. 

The shirt is available here on Black Horse Lane’s website.

A guided visit to the Paraboot factory in Saint-Jean-de Moirans

Paraboot

French craftsmanship at its finest

French shoe manufacturers can be counted on two hands. The very good ones on a few fingers. Paraboot is one of them. This legendary French footwear brand has shone worldwide for several decades. 

Exceptionally, we had the chance to visit their brand-new factory located in Saint-Jean-de-Moirans in Isère, in the South East of France near the French Alps. We are very proud to be able to visit one of the most beautiful shoe manufacturers in the world, just a few hours away from our home. 

The visit took place in 3 stages. First, we visited the brand's museum, a room that gathers the most emblematic pairs of Paraboot and Galibier. Then we visited the warehouse and saw most of the leathers used. Finally, in the afternoon, we were able to see all the steps of the manufacturing process of Paraboot pairs. 

At the end of the visit we all agreed, Thomas, Mathieu and Marcos: we now love Paraboot even more. It is undeniably a very beautiful company on all levels. The people, environmentally speaking, the century-old know-how and above all, really high-quality shoes. 

MUSEUM VISIT – History of the brand

It all began with Rémy Richard, a farmer's son who became a shoemaker in the early 20th century. With a taste for adventure, he left for the United States in 1920 without speaking a word of English, with only a passport, three francs six pennies and a trunk, the latter can still be seen in the museum. It was during this trip that Rémy Richard noticed that Americans were wearing a kind of rubber overlay over their shoes in big cities, to protect them from rain and water. These shoes are called “boots” by the Americans. The idea of making a leather shoe with rubber soles was born in his head.

But for that, he had to find the raw material, latex. It is in the port of Para - which no longer exists but which was located near Manaus in Brazil in the Amazon region - that he will source it. 

This is also the origin of the brand name ParaBoot, because Paraboot is the name of the sole used for the shoes. One thing leading to another, the name was taken over by the brand name of the shoes. It was registered in 1927. This vulcanization process, unique in France, is still used by Paraboot.

A "Paraboot" is therefore from its origin a leather shoe with a rubber sole.

But when Rémy Richard returned to France from his trip to the United States, he first created the Galibier brand. The year was 1922. It was the beginning of crampon work on rubber bands. The brand still has examples of the first mountain and work shoes - the brodequin. With a wooden sole at first, and then the first rubber sole mouldings in a second stage. At that time, in the 1930s, Paraboot even offered rubber boots, just like the French Aigle brand.

Through Jack Lang's office – the French Minister of Culture in the 1980’s – the President -François Mitterand – wanted to replace his old walking shoes. Problem: the model had not been manufactured for many years. At the insistence of the President, the owner of the Vieux Campeur obtained that the Galibier factories start up again the abandoned machines. Thus, six models, of different sizes, were made. Galibier charged 10,000 F each (1,500 €). The President was delighted; the Vieux Campeur never dared to send the bill to the Elysée Palace...

1945 marks the birth of Michel Richard, the current president of the company. But it was also the end of the Second World War. The company wanted to make simple, solid shoes without too many frills. It was the birth of emblematic models such as the Morzine in 1943 and the Michael in 1945. Michael is a reference to Michel (Richard). At the end of the war, it was fashionable to Americanize first names. This model is still the most manufactured and sold by the brand. An indispensable.  

Other models were developed as well, such as the "Élevage", a high boot with Norwegian stitching, to satisfy certain trades. 

The 1950s and 1960s were marked by the development of the Galibier brand with the discovery of the North faces of the world's highest peaks, such as Mount Everest and the Mont Blanc. The great figures of mountaineering wanted to equip themselves directly at the factory, such as René Desmaison, Paul-Emile Victor and Haroun Tazieff. They enabled the brand to develop products that met the specific needs of high mountaineering. However, Paraboot remains more focused on the countryside. Galibier's international development was mainly in the United States, Canada and Italy. 

The 1980s saw an increase in exports to the United States but also the beginning of a difficult period for the brand. With the various privatizations of companies and labor regulations implemented by François Mitterrand in France as well as the arrival of Ronald Reagan as head of the United States, and his implementation of a policy of supply, the Dollar collapsed from 10 to 4 francs. The company found itself on the brink of collapse and filed for bankruptcy.  

The brand made a striking come-back thanks to the Michael model, still very popular. This trend will mark the advent of the Michael shifting from the country-side to the city. This was followed by the development of the Chambord and Avignon models, which we are very fond of. 

At the end of the 1980s, the Japanese market took off. This development continued over the following years until it became one of Paraboot's main markets. A mark of recognition when you know how demanding and attached the Japanese are to know-how!

COLLABORATIONS

A few words about collaborations. Paraboot doesn't particularly highlight it but it has worked with the most beautiful brands in the world. The emblematic models of these collaborations are displayed in the brand's museum. This is for example the case of a very beautiful pair made for Hermès. A mix of Michael and Morzine. 

The opportunity for us to (re)discover the Morzine. Less known than the Michael, it is often preferred by connoisseurs. It has always been more expensive than the Michael due to the use of a more noble leather. The skin comes from a calf born under the mother and which will remain so during approximately 2 years. This gives the leather a less rigid and more supple appearance. Its patina will also be different than a classic calf leather. 

Fun fact, the Morzine is sometimes nicknamed the "Para 3 stripes" in reference to its 3 seams on the side reminding the Adidas signature. 

The leathers used

We spent two hours looking at different types of leathers, their hand, their finish, their thickness**... If Paraboot does not have a tannery, the brand has developed over the years a very good expertise in leather. A necessity, because a good shoe is first and foremost a good leather. Most of Paraboot's leathers come from France: from Degermann, a well-known Alsatian tannery, or from Haas, like the Novonappa used for the Morzine or the Suportlo for the Michael, Chambord, Avignon...

They are mainly 100% full grain and on each skin used no plastic finishing layer is applied to hide defects. No rectified leather. This is also the reason why we can sometimes observe slight wrinkles or veins.

During our visit, we also quickly realized that to distinguish a good suede leather is complicated. How to differentiate with the naked eye a full grain leather that has been sanded from a simple leather crust? Not always easy, if not impossible... Trusting the brand is thus essential.

**between 2.2 and 2.4mm for the skins used by Paraboot.

VISIT OF THE FACTORY

We were able to see all the stages of manufacturing and even the maintenance of the machines. Everything starts with the sole, then the cutting of the leather, the assembly of the upper and finally the finishing stages. 

Four processes in particular stood out to us during this visit.

• The sole

First the sole. One of the only shoe manufacturers in the world that does not outsource the manufacturing of its soles. 

Historically, the brand even invented mountain soles 11 years before Vitale Bramani, the creator of Vibram.

The raw material (rubber) passes through two of the imposing presses that equip the factory. The more the material is heated, the harder it becomes, which makes it possible to achieve the desired effect, more or less robust and more or less flexible.

An interesting detail is that the midsoles - which are essential for durability - are also equipped with a metal shank that ensures a good fit.

• The floating lining

On a high-end pair, we systematically have what we call a “floating lining”. The inner lining is only stitched and not glued to the upper. In other words, when you let your pair rest after a day of wearing, the air will be able to circulate more easily inside. The life of the shoe is significantly increased. Because the enemy of leather is moisture and mold. 

Indeed, 50 years ago, it was not unusual for people to wear the same shoes every day. They didn't rotate so that the pair could breathe, simply because they didn't have several pairs to rotate! Habits have changed. Still, the shoes held up very well. The floating lining helps to alleviate this problem.

• The difference between the 45 “joint” and the “wall joint”

One of Paraboot's specialties on the Chambord is the “45 joint”, which is the stitching of the uppers at 45°. This is a rare skill that few shoemakers have mastered. It allows to obtain a very fine and discreet stitching, a detail very appreciated by Japanese connoisseurs.

It differs from the wall joint, a much coarser seam.

• The production of custom-made boots

A factory that is able to produce custom-made pairs of boots in parallel is necessarily a very good sign. This is the case of Paraboot, which manufactures the French Police parade boots.

Upon graduation, each new biker of the National French Police receives a pair of custom-made parade boots. The boots are ultra-fit to begin with and even require what is called a "boot puller" to remove them.

At the time we were visiting the factory, a Paraboot craftsman was, for example, working on a boot originally made in 2017 that had been turned inside out. In this case because the biker had put on muscle. 

When they come back, the boots are often very soft from successive wear. To give them a fixed shape and curvature, they are soaked in a special glue and kept 24 hours in a special oven to stiffen them.

To make these custom-made boots, footprints are taken as well as some measurements of the leg: hock, calf...In order to stick as closely as possible to the customer's foot, up to 4 widths of shapes - made of hornbeam, a very hard wood - per size are proposed. Pieces of leather can then be added if needed to fit the dimensions of the biker's feet as closely as possible.

Here are some pictures.

Teinture de tranche

Les formes en bois utilisées pour les bottes sur-mesure

Paraboot x Hermès

PARABOOT x Mugler

Readers attire, Obeyfeline AKA Réginald Jérôme de Mans, author of « Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance »

We have already written an article about Réginald-Jérôme de Mans' book, « Swan Songs ». From our point of view, it is one of the best books of the last 10 years on menswear. So when we heard he was doing a signing at Chato Lufsen in Paris late last year, we immediately thought of him for our Readers' Attire series.

This have us the opportunity to ask him a few questions.

Where does your love for French craftsmanship come from?

Without wanting to echo the lengthy historical evocations that my friend Die, Workwear! begins his essays with, we have to go back to when I started prep school in the American Northeast. Prep really isn’t how people think of it today, which is this idealized, embellished image based on Ralph Lauren’s latter-day syncretism and a sort of nostalgia tinted rose by people who weren’t there to begin with. Prep is, fundamentally, adolescent, based on the insecurities and presumptions of high school (the elite “preparatory” high schools supposed to prepare you for admission to unbearably expensive prestigious universities) and youthful privilege. As can be expected out of anything adolescent and high school, it’s based on ideas of exclusion. And insomuch as it originated out of the American northeast, the underside of its exuberance is cold and inimical. It is categorically not elegant. Rather, it is a hegemony and homogeny of oxford cloth button-downs and khakis, of LL Bean backpacks with their damn reflective stripe across the back, and above all of fear: fear of not belonging, fear of being discovered. We quickly learned not to mention that we didn’t have a second house at the shore and that we didn’t spend our winter breaks skiing in Colorado or Switzerland. The same conformity extended even unto the music listened to. A very bourgeois mediocrity, a very bourgeois presumption that the world would continue to offer those of us who belonged everything they needed to continue and perpetuate their belonging, to the next generation. For me, it was a cold shock. I do not like being labelled, so I strove to define myself rather than have others smugly define me, including in how I dressed. I could not lay claim to a preppy wardrobe selected reflexively by a family that knew these codes. But in a discount store I found a Christian Dior overcoat, a diffusion-line thing from way back before LVMH had bought back all the Dior licenses. Despite it being not particularly interesting-looking, the name made it exotic to me, completely beyond the preppy world that was not about beauty of appearance, but about known quantities. The coat was the first garment that gave me the abnormal curiosity I have to learn more about the history, the cultural references, and so on of brands and makers. The next year a telefilm of Mrs. ’Arris Goes to Paris aired featuring my favorite actor, Omar Sharif, so I watched it. As it’s about a lower-class woman who goes to Paris to buy, with her savings, an haute couture Dior dress, it could be a metaphor for my sartorial life since then.

 More seriously, as I began to get interested in quality clothes, I especially became interested in British makers – as I wrote in my book, there’s nothing more French than Anglophilia. But having lived in France at several different periods of my life, I had gotten to know certain French brands and shops, more certainly than the average iGent. And happening to live in Paris just after Sulka’s closing, during the final years of Old England and Arnys, I had the opportunity to visit them often as well as to discover other places like Anthony Delos’s shop back at the time he was on his own. Or, for that matter, Charvet, which is obviously well known but which became my first custom shirtmaker because at the time I thought I would order just one shirt, but it would be perfect and in just the color and pattern I wanted because I had thought that if Charvet didn’t have it, it doesn’t exist. As it turned out, I ordered one shirt after another and I discovered that even Charvet couldn’t stock every color and pattern I dreamed of. But I had the good fortune to use them when their patternmaker was Luis Penedo, who had been at Gaillet before and after Hermès bought it, and at Sulka Paris, and he rigorously perfected a fantastic pattern for me. I eventually realized that, rather like with my coat, I wanted something that no one else could have, either through my knowing more or through the rarity and unusualness of the item. So I had the tailor at Charvet, who had made for Philippe Noiret, one of the most elegant Frenchmen of the last 50 years, make me a custom sportcoat – although very few people seem to recall that Charvet has its own tailor, he’s very good, and at the time was quite reasonable! While I was in Paris I continued to use an English tailor, but the international man of mystery Michael Alden also opened my eyes to the Groupe des cinq and to the French tailoring tradition, seeding a curiosity I wouldn’t satisfy for years. And thanks to him, I found my current shirtmaker, Marc Lauwers. While I haven’t tried every shirtmaker currently working, in my limited experience he is the best still in business, and certainly the most elegant!

What really crystallized my sartorial Francophilia such as it is was, ironically, my former literary agent’s request to find a subject for a book. I realized after some reflection that there wasn’t any book about makers of French menswear that discussed them with intelligence and incisiveness. (Since that time, of course, Hugo Jacomet published his book, although the two of us approach our subject differently.) That request even led me to place my first order with Camps de Luca, although I discovered that the excuse “it was just for research!” doesn’t work with wives even in this case. I’ve particularly invested in vintage from various French houses, so that the old pulsion I had to exceed, to find something no one else had or could, took a different aspect, that of having something that no longer existed, something that would require a voyage in time to attain. Because today’s titans can afford to order before breakfast as many suits as I’ve saved a decade to buy, and can order grail watches the price of a luxury car the same way that I buy beans for my coffee machine. But they will never know which labels are the sign of the great periods of Sulka’s existence, or what made some of the old cashmeres made for Hermès and Charvet decades ago better than anything sold by Loro Piana or Cucinelli today. Unless they read my book.

On your Instagram account you have fun with memes about French high end craftsmanship, is it a way for you to make this world more accessible?

When I started becoming Extremely Online I quickly saw that most influencers (and before them, the journalists who wrote about men’s style) engage in a sort of intentional distancing about their topic – bespoke, handmade craft, and so on – through a sort of elevation using cultural references (often through allusions to texts they themselves have not read), or references to former customers themselves served by cutters and lastmakers dead for a half-century, or to mythical craft practices as esoteric as the Elysian Mysteries. That way, they can make themselves seem more important, as having access to these otherwise rarefied and exclusive worlds… and thus also seem like members of the presumed exalted class to whom these worlds were habitual (and in so doing, crafting a ridiculous and exclusive idea of the “gentleman”). And in their own turn, certain brands both large and small took advantage of the same sort of image-building to live on those reputations and take short-cuts in how they actually worked. Neither I or nor most of these oracles, nor 95% of our readers including the creepy RETVRN traditionalists who gravitate to discussions of classic clothing, are actually part of that supposed class to whom grande mesure was a commonplace. In fact, that class, to the extent it existed, would have taken for granted these things that to us are so exalted and luxurious, and as such taken no pleasure in what were simply what one did, as part of routines and ceremonies. Those of us who have to do it with intentionality, who find excitement in its novelty and in every minutely surveyed detail of an order, are people like me presuming above our stations. So we create fantasies and each completed order, which can never live up to unstated dreams, is tempered with disappointment. There are many different humorous perspectives to this mentality and vicious cycle. Irreverence is necessary to make sense of it, to deflate all the mummery and ridiculous pretentions. I always think of the lucid conclusion Tyler Brûlé, the founder of the hypermodernist magazine wallpaper, made: that in reality the person who actually bought the beautifully curated items his magazine’s spreads carefully set out was “some banker” – just a finance bro with means but dubious taste.

 I like to joke that (to paraphrase Black Sabbath) I sold my sold for steez. I spent decades thinking about it, reading books about it, and questing for endless grails. Unlike what the people I described above suggest, there is never one magic purchase that will change your life, or that will make you a member of the elect in those Slim Aarons photos or Alexander Kraft layouts. Even in the most legendary shops you can be treated more like cattle by intern salespeople who know about as much. So “we must imagine Sisyphus happy.”

Your book, « Swan Songs » tells the stories of great Parisian houses of the past, most of them defunct today. In your opinion, which brand(s) were able to capture this heritage?

Rather like the Greek epigram’s seven towns that claim Homer’s birth after he died (Doh!), a dozen Paris shops now try to be the heirs to Arnys’ spurious and invented French tradition… While Arnys’ former accessories designer Dominique Lelys is active at Artumès & Co., I think Christophe Bréard at Chato Lufsen maintains the creative and luxurious inspiration of Arnys and the eccentric elegance of certain other defunct houses that I wrote about. Nothing, on the other hand, could replace Old England because what made it memorable was its cavernous, baronial interior, majestically luxurious in a manner that cannot be replicated today. But for those looking for integrity of craft in the highest tradition, Marc Lauwers maintains it in shirtmaking, while Camps de Luca has become the centerpiece of the two traditions of French tailoring from the last century: that of the Groupe des cinq (who were actually rebelling against a classic tailoring old guard by cutting new fashions in new lightweight cloths) and in indeed the classic, as the styles of custom tailoring became fully classic from the 1980s onward… Ironically, almost all the remaining Paris tailors are from the Groupe des cinq and their alumni. Even Cifonelli, the last of the grand classic Parisian tailors, added first Claude Rousseau then Gabriel Gonzalez to its forces, both of them former Camps cutters.

Do you have any style obsessions?

Not sure if I’ve well understood the difference between this question and the two following, but color and transgression within the classic are obsessions. Color particularly in rollnecks and my shirts, taking inspiration from the 1960s, Terence Stamp, David Hemmings in Blow Up, Lord Snowdon… That period had attracted me early because it was (at least superficially) a time when it seemed there was a democratization of elegance, or its availability to those who had the means, where non-upper-class sartorial obsessives like Stamp became icons, or a man of color, Omar Sharif, became the go-to actor of unclassifiable origin, playing Argentines, Armenians, Mongolians, Austrians, and so, so many different Russians. A man of unclassifiable origin and uncertain home, living for decades out of a hotel room at the Royal Monceau in his Huntsman and Cifonelli suits, tracking the seasons simply by, in his words, changing from cashmere polonecks to cotton ones from Harrods.

 Various other finicky obsessions of mine spring from that period, like the collar i order on shirts, an English spread just a bit higher than the norm, and for 20 years jackets cut in the hacking style with diagonal pockets and double vents. And always side adjuster straps on my trousers instead of belt loops.

 Esthetically I’m obsessed with the hauntological, as Derrida usefully conceptualized it: visions from the past of what could have been and of what we – those of us who certainly would not have had access to those nice things in the past – could have done with them as postmodern reinvention. That is why I loved so much the “15” concept store that operated in Paris from 2003 to 2004, putting Art Deco classics next to the best of current French craft creating a rigorously curated set of items. Fantasies that confront our much more prosaic, even nightmarish, world.

The accessory you can't live without?

My reflexive answer is the RJ cat pocket square that I nagged Kent Wang to put into being so that men around the world could keep my late cat close to their hearts but in reality I almost never wear decorated silk handkerchieves anymore… I prefer to wear simple linen handkerchieves to avoid the Pitti look.

 When it’s cool out I do always wear a good pair of gloves and a nice scarf, as you might see from the photos you took. For whatever reason I always feel coldest at my hands and neck, which is one reason I like rollnecks and scarves so much. For scarves it’s either the cashmere-silk prints (I started wearing printed silk scarves in high school to appall preps) or the oversized cashmere scarves from Begg. I prefer and collect gloves from French makers, although the best-known houses are no longer very good in my humble opinion.

What do you think is a must-have in every man's wardrobe?

Rollnecks in lambswool or a good cashmere, beginning with black (Archer’s “tactleneck”), but ideally in all the colors of the rainbow. I live in them during the winter. After that, the most essential thing is a good alterations tailor, which is hard to find nowadays.

What brands do you like?

For a long time I was a fan of the British designer Richard James. My favorite brands nowadays are … Caerlee Mills (the former Ballantyne mill in Scotland although now closed), the Holliday & Brown specially re-edited for Prada ties, and thanks to the years spent immersed in my book, Sulka items from certain periods as well as the merchandise from Hilditch & Key Paris: I can tell by the label whether things were made for the Paris branch, and they were not at all the same as the items sold at or by the main Hilditch & Key of London, which now dominates and which seems to be sinking into forgettable mediocrity.

Do you have any little known brands you can recommend?

As I’ve harped on French glovemaking, I have to recommend Lesdiguières-Barnier since no other glover is still working with French kid (Lavabre-Cadet recently announced they would no longer sell gloves in it, although it’s a stunningly soft and silky material). French-made peccary gloves are another obsession and Gérard Durand on rue du Bac sells the best quality at the lowest price. I also love sized socks and Crimson rue Marbeuf and Kimono on boulevard Haussmann have some of the best selections of over-the-calf socks in cotton or wool. Thanks to Martin Nimier of the old souliers.net site I also learned about A l’escalier d’argent in the garden of the Palais-Royal which sells handmade ties in 18th-century jacquard patterns.

 My brotha from anotha motha Oscar Udeshi may not be that well-known in France. He has an incredible eye for the beautiful and the original as well as an obsession for the quality and integrity of the materials and construction of his products.

 I should also mention the young leatherworker Victor Dast, who is all at once talented, humble and diligent. He is also a friend, but I have no commercial relation on quid pro quo with him.

What were you wearing during this shoot?

Haha, climate change threw me for a loop. Before my visit the forecast was about 15 degrees colder so I packed my thickest cashmeres (made by the same defunct Scottish mill for several different French houses in the 1990s) and heavy flannels…. and then we had damp but warm weather that I wasn’t prepared for at all, so I had to improvise. I’m wearing a vintage t-shirt in Karnak cotton (a super-silky and lustrous cotton that supposedly was harvested only every several years) and a lambskin M65 jacket, both vintage Hermès from the 1990s, a cashmere-silk scarf printed with medieval scenes from Hilditch & Key Paris from back when it sold more interesting stuff, ivory trousers in the Permanent Style x Fox cavalry twill copied by my Mystery Bespoke Trousermaker from my Camps de Luca trousers, and double-strap kid suede jodhpur boots made for me by Anthony Delos based on a model from the Lobb London custom catalog. The catalog used to be on the Lobb London site and had innumerable elegant models; Delos did his own version in order not to infringe Lobb’s intellectual property. Regarding the trousers, during the pandemic when no one could travel (and when we were not wearing suits but I wanted odd trousers to wear at home) I had an extremely attentive trousermaker copy my Camps de Luca trousers in many different materials (I later confessed to the de Lucas and sought absolution). Receiving my first pair of trousers from Camps de Luca, for the first time in my life I understood how clients of certain trousermakers could get so euphoric, since these were cut so elegantly and well despite the failings of my figure. Even my MBTM was blown away by their work, but he reproduced it excellently. And Crompton’s cavalry twill was a revelation: it’s thick, supple and stretchy.