The Anthology Tweed Herringbone Jacket - A Tweed jacket with a "softer aesthetic"

Reader's note: The Tweed jacket featured in this article was purchased directly from the brand's website by mutual agreement with The Anthology.

At the 95th Academy Awards, British actor Bill Nighy - nominated in the Best Actor category - dazzled the red carpet with his well-cut tuxedo. The media asked him the traditional question "who are you wearing? - meaning "which designer dresses you?" - Bill replied: "some cool guys from Hong Kong, The Anthology". The (small) world of cinema discovered The Anthology. We had talked about the Hong Kong label two years ago, with their flagship product, the Lazyman jacket, a hybrid half-blazer half-cardigan. A brand that is somewhat unknown in France, but well worth a closer look. While Lazyman is an integral part of my wardrobe, their Tweed jacket recently made its debut.

Let’s take a closer look.

From a meeting comes the love of a style

A few years after our article on the Lazyman jacket, I had the pleasure of meeting Buzz Tang, co-founder of The Anthology, in Paris over coffee and viennoiseries.

He was wearing a beautiful light beige waxed cotton jacket - of his own brand, of course - and I immediately understood that Buzz was dressing for real pleasure. A polo shirt, jeans and Crockett & Jones loafers, from his collaboration with The Anthology, completed his outfit.

In this interview, Buzz told me about the beginnings of the brand, and the trials and tribulations he faced. Thanks to these, he and his tailoring partner Andy Chong have built a solid reputation in the world of bespoke and made-to- measure suits.

So naturally, I wanted to try on a jacket from the brand's wardrobe.

An essential Tweed jacket for winter

Tweed is the queen of winter fabrics. We've written about Tweed at length in our columns, but it's worth remembering that this dense, strong-handed wool originated in Scotland, a region we're particularly fond of. Tweed is therefore a perfect ally for the autumn/winter seasons, as its tight weave keeps the body warm while providing armor against wind and cold. Tweed is even hydrophobic, keeping you - within reason - fairly dry in the event of a light shower.

The pattern of this jacket, a black chevron on a dominant gray background, is a classic of the men's wardrobe.

ZOOM ON THE HERRINGBONE PATTERN ON THE ANTHOLOGY JACKET. IMAGE FROM THE AHTOLOGY WEBSITE

Classic doesn't mean boring. For a long time, I looked for reasons not to wear Tweed. Too warm, too rough, too British, too country...the superlatives were endless.

And then I got interested in the history of Tweed, its weaving, its origin and its usefulness.

The Tweed used for our jacket is moderately heavy in weight. We don't have the exact weight available, but feel free to write to us in the comments of this article or on Instagram, we'll ask the brand.

Tweed has all the qualities needed to face the cold of autumn and winter.

A "softer aesthetic" jacket with English and Ivy influences

What is soft tailoring? The concept was born several years ago when Vicenzo Attolini, a cutter at Rubinacci, decided to remove the padding from the shoulder of a jacket to create a "spalla camicia" sleeve - meaning "a jacket shoulder like that of a shirt", judged more natural and unstructured.

The term "soft tailoring" doesn't mean much these days. Tailors often offer both: two customers dressing in the same house may come out with two diametrically opposed suits. That's why Buzz Tang speaks of a "softer aesthetic" - a rounder, softer line, without going overboard.

Starting with the lapels. The notch is low, unlike the Italian, which is higher, flattering the build. During a chat over coffee, Buzz told me that it took him a long time to develop the perfect notch. At least, the one he felt was the most balanced. I can confirm that this low cuff is very popular and lends a certain retro feel. It's rare to find cuffs like this in a made-to-order offer.

Then there are the shoulders. They structure the silhouette, enveloping it without making it square. There's no padding in the construction, but the special feature of The Anthology shoulder is its extension. In fact, it's slightly longer than what you'd expect from other brands we've reviewed. I find the shoulder line elegant and a real nod to English craftsmanship.

The jacket is fully lined - which makes sense for a fall/winter piece - and features a fun detail: patch pockets with flaps. When I asked Buzz why he made this hybrid choice, he replied that he wanted to pay subtle homage to Ivy style. This detail makes the piece less dressy and may not appeal to some, but it has the merit of offering something new not seen elsewhere.

The jacket comes with the buttonholes unfinished, so you can choose your ideal length with your trusted alteration specialist.

This review of my The Anthology Tweed jacket is also a reminder that the "made in China" label is not always synonymous with poor quality. On the contrary, there are high-quality workshops offering well-made garments. Buzz and Andy are in constant contact with their Hong Kong workshop.

How to size The Anthology Tweed jacket?

Normally! Opt for your usual size, below the size chart. Feel free to ask the great customer service on the website or via Instagram.

IMAGE FROM THE ANTHOLOGY SIZE CHART. SOURCE: THE ANTHOLOGY WEBSITE

A Tweed jacket that's inevitably informal

As mentioned earlier, Tweed is a wool that lends a rather casual look. For this reason, here's how I wear this jacket.

I’m wearing a John Smedley turtleneck in navy merino wool, Uniqlo U selvedge jeans and Alden penny loafers.

Of course, there's nothing to stop you wearing a jacket in this material with a tie.

Ready for the autumn/winter season?

The answer is yes. A real suit of armor will protect you from the cold with taste and peace of mind.

Available here.