Trickers - UK’s oldest shoe manufacturer
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Tricker’s
UK’s oldest shoe manufacturer
In 1935, the art critic Walter Benjamin published The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction. In this philosophical essay, the German author poses the question of the uniqueness of a work of art: to what extent does it remain unique when reproduced? In this respect, the question is to ensure that the reproducibility does not alter the aura of the work itself. The aura can be identified as what intrinsically characterizes this work or object. For Benjamin, the more a work is reproduced, the less it retains its original uniqueness - we can safely even speak of authenticity. In the Art world, let’s take the example of the Orthodox icon. It retains its aura in that each one is unique. Conversely, it loses it when it is reproduced en masse through the medium of photography or printing.
Marcel Duchamp went against this ideology by using ready-made everyday objects in his work. Everyday objects – largely reproduced – become art, refuting Benjamin's theory.
By adhering to this vision, we no longer accept to be the owner of an original work but of a unique know-how. To this extent, this is the case for the world of clothing, some brands are the product of a centuries-old technical mastery. This is the case of the English shoe brand Tricker's, with a 193-year heritage. We’re honored to present the United Kingdom’s oldest shoe manufacturer, a review consisting of two pairs.
Style breakdown.
The current Tricker's factory
Image trickers.com
Joseph Barltrop founded R.E. Tricker & Co. in 1829 as a 19-year-old master bootmaker. When he died 50 years later, the brand passed into the hands of his son-in-law, Walter James Barltrop. He opened the way for the waterproof shoes and boots, what Tricker's is known for today. The famous Country Boots convey a typically English vibe. They were designed to be used for hunting, in the forest or for any other activity in damp terrain. While many brands have moved away from this style, Tricker's has stayed true to its DNA, much to the delight of all Gentlemen who whish to remain stylish in all circumstances.
More than 5 generations later, the brand is still in the same family fold. The current Tricker's factory, which opened in 1904, is located at 56-60 St. Michael's Rd, Northampton. All Tricker's shoes are proudly made here.
As a symbol of this exceptional know-how, Tricker's still has a bespoke service. A desire to maintain the old Northampton shoe manufacturing methods. A service that also attracts new generations of craftsmen, such as Adele Williamson who trained alongside Scott McKee - a famous Tricker's bootmaker - and who now leads Tricker's bespoke teams.
Another symbol of excellence, Tricker's has held a "Royal Warrant" granted by the Prince of Wales since 1989. This is a system in place since the 15th century that officially recognizes high quality suppliers. For example, Corgi, Turnbull & Asser or Barbour also hold this warrant.
No wonder Prince Charles has his own custom-made Tricker's shoes!
The video below illustrates perfectly the history of Tricker's and its know-how. Their shoe lasts are made by Spring Line, the last lasts manufacturer in Great Britain.
In addition to the Country classics, Tricker's is also known for its collaborations with the most beautiful brands such as Margaret Howell, Junya Watanabe and Engineered Garments.
So it was only logical that we talk about this (almost) two hundred year old brand. For this review, we chose the iconic Daniel and Bourton models.
THE BOURTON - A BESTSELLER FOR OVER 70 YEARS
If there is one brand that can boast of producing sturdy shoes, it’s Tricker's. The Bourton model is still assembled in Northampton in a Goodyear storm welt stitching, which means that the outsole is even more protected in rainy events. More than 260 operations are required to make such a pair!
This is the brogue derby that we think is among the most recognizable on the feet of enthusiasts. The toe is round and generous, exactly as we like it. The last or shape, is the 4444 - which was born for the ascension to the throne of King George VI - sizes slightly larger than other traditional shoes, which is why Tricker's advises to opt for the lower half size (instead of an 8 UK, choose a 7.5 UK). But still, this is not an exact science, this is why we always recommend trying on a pair before purchase.
The black leather of our model has the particularity of being bookbinded. This means that a layer of polyurethane has been applied to make it waterproof. If some people don't like this particular leather because it tends to mark as the pair ages, we think that regular maintenance with a Saphir repair fluid and shoe trees will render this pair timeless.
When and on what occasions should you wear the Bourton? We'd say every day, but when it's not too hot. And if it's raining, the Bourton won't fail you.
We like to pair them with a navy suit, formal trousers, but not so much with jeans - we reserve that option for the other model below, the Daniel. Here we're wearing it with a pair of blue flannel trousers, a vanilla OCBD and a Prince of Wales patterned wool jacket by our friends Prologue.
But the Bourton is still very versatile, and you can easily pair it with a more casual outfit.
THE DANIEL - LIGHT, FLEXIBLE AND MODERN
The Daniel is a classic 4-eyelet derby shoe with minimalist styling and a rugged look. It's clearly an all-around shoe that will go perfectly with your formal and casual attire.
The first thing you notice when you try it on is the weight! It is massive and yet so light. That's due in part to the Vibram Vi-Lite outsole that has a rugged commando look while being extremely light and comfortable. The midsole-less construction that acts as a midsole also takes weight off and adds flexibility without compromising too much on quality or durability.
This pair is also modern in the leather it uses. A Tricker's exclusive Olivvia leather that is tanned using olive leaves. This vegetable tanned leather is made in partnership with Wet-Green and Weimheimer Tannery.
Where to find them?
The brand has two stores, one in London on Jermyn Street and one in Japan. In Paris we would advise you to go to Royal Cheese.
Finally, online you can order directly on their website or through retailers such as Mr Porter.
MUST-HAVES
We like quality shoes, well finished and aesthetically pleasing ones. Tricker's fulfills these requirements perfectly. Northampton being UK’s leather, we are very honored to have been able to write about yet another brand from this region, confirming our first intuitions: these shoes are well made, robust and stylish.
